I know, another damn cam thread…

2001 FXDX, going with 95", stage 2 headwork, 10.5:1 wiseco pistons, bassani 2-1 and gear driven cams.

My indy has built a lot of strong motors for a lot of years in the business, and is heavily suggesting S&S 510g cams. My problem is, on their site it says for stock heads and stock compression.

"This 510G cam is designed as a bolt in cam for 88, 95 and 96 inch engines with compression ratios below 9.7:1. Intended primarily for stock heads that have not been ported. Can be used with stock springs."

I mentioned this to him and he said, yes, they CAN be used with stock heads and low comp but will be even better with the setup I previously mentioned and not to worry, it will run great and pull like a train.

Another concern is I'm reading they don't really pull until higher RPMs…not what I want, I want low end TQ (2,000-5500rpm would be ideal)

Should I just trust him and go with what he suggests or insist on a different cam? Which ones?

Thanks guys, don't need the most radical and fastest bike but don't want to spend all this money to be disappointed...

 

contact S&S tech dept they can answer that one for you.

 

I have the 510 Geardrives in my 88 inch FXDX with a T Header, SE intake, and Reworked carb......

My bike pulls so hard from 2500-to redline I love them. I would say that with a 95 incher you would have a similar power curve, with everything starting about 500 RPM sooner than my 88 incher with maybe 5 more HP on the Top then my setup.

I think what you indy is telling you to do is well suited for a bike that will be ridden fast and aggressively. Opinions may vary, and that is mine.

I am gonna end up with a forged set of 10:5 comp CP pistons in stock bore. I just wanna keep the 88 incher because it revs so well.

 

He is correct that they will run even better with more compression and headwork. Compression will help the bottom end torque. Those cams should be alright at 10.5:1 with a good tune. Should be around 205psi cranking. That's a little high but should be ok with a good tune. I normally wouldn't recommend that much to every customer unless they insist. I'm assuming it's carbed? Are you keeping the stock carb? Definitely will need an ignition. The power curve and where the torque comes on will depend on how the pipe reacts. The pipe will make or break the torque curve where you want it. Who's doing the heads? Stage 2 I'm assuming they're changing valve sizes. You could have the clearances setup and install some .600 lift beehive springs and that would open your cam options greatly to a lot of the modern higher lift bolt ins. If you're willing to spend a little more to have the heads setup. My buddy is running a carbed 95" with those 10.5 wisecos, 1.9 intake valve, mild headwork, t man 625 cams. It makes 110hp 112ft lbs, hits 100ft lbs at 2500 rpm. Really strong for a 95".

I've said it before and I'll say it again, there's absolutely no need for the gear drives, and I would never run them without doing the crank. The se hydraulic kit is great, and by far the best bang for the buck imo. I don't understand why anyone would spend more money to make it less reliable and more of a pain to setup and work on.

My recommendation would be a 97" kit with flat tops such as s&s. Cheap and gives you a little extra displacement=torque. Mild headwork with a 1.900 intake, 9.7-10:1 compression and se204 cams. I like these cams more every day for exactly what you're looking for. The last 3 I've done were 95" flat tops with bone stock heads and all went 102-105ft lbs. They run great on the bottom to middle, you would not be disappointed. They sound sweet too. I'm actually doing this exact setup on an 02 carbed bike in a couple weeks.

 

ide look for another builder.for one,10.5-1 is too much compression for the 510`s.second,the .510`s are VERY mild cams and work best in basicly stock motors or VERY mild builds.youde be a lot better with with .583`s set at 10.0-1 for low end torque

 

I really appreciate all the info, this is all new to me, obviously.
Stock carb, ignition, as well as compression releases.
I'm certainly no expert but just seems kind of silly to do the big bore and head work to run a bolt in cam that would've worked with a stock 88"…I feel like I'm not getting everything out of it that I could?

Like I said, I don't need the baddest and the fastest, I want more power but reliability is very important to me. At the same time, I don't want to be spending thousands on setup thats "just okay"

What are t man cams? Is that a company? Never heard of them, but those numbers in that 95" sound damn good to me!

 

This is why this **** gets so confusing to me. Everyone says different things - from they'll be awesome to find a new builder. Color me confused.

 

I'm telling you dude, like I already did, the 570 has a super broad torque curve, run 10:1 or 10.25:1 and rip it up with that cam

I think I've decided to put a 570 in my 103 build on my Fat Bob