It would be real easy for you to loosen the regulator mount bolts and clean any rust or corrosion off the frame and the regulator base. Be certain there are star washers on both the bolt head and the nut side.

The additional ground wire trick may work for you too. I connected it to the regulator bolt and then directly to an engine bolt. I used the bolt that holds the spring to keep the stator plug tight. Use a good 18 gauge or heavier.

With all the charging components new the only thing left is a possible bad ground, or broken wiring in the charging circuit making very little contact.

Might check the length of wire from the regulator to it's mounting point with the wiring harness. It's just a stud that both wires hook to often on the steering neck or under a side panel.

 

Thanks for the response JohnnyC. I will check the wiring closer....

Trucky911

 

I added the LED passing lights from DK custom Products and and the volt drop was not as bad. Only went to the low side of 14 on my volt meter on the bike @ idle. So I added the head light LED from DK Customs and the bike volt meter charges at 14.5 volts while at speed and 14 volts at idle. Although this is better some thing is taxing the charging system. I think it has to do with the light wires. With the stock passing and head light bulbs it should not drop below 13 volts. Time to dig deeper and check wires and grounds. Any thoughts?.....

Trucky911

 

I use this Batteryminder. It is more expensive than a Tender, but it works great, and desulfites a battery. You also can get a free digital meter with it. After charging my batteries they are at 13.25 volts. They will drop to 12.75 fairly quick. 12.3 is weak.

http://www.batteryminders.com/8-volt...attery-charger

Any battery maintainer will not fully charge a new battery. Put it on a 2 amp charger until it reads 100%.

I have a spare boat battery that is 15 years old, and still fires up my Marine Chevy Indmar 350 on the first crank.

 

The best way to positively verify your grounds is to use a voltmeter and read from any chassis or drive train ground on the bike to the negative post on the battery. For good grounds, you should read very little voltage, typically less than 0.125 vdc. Anymore than that indicates the chassis ground you are measuring is compromised...rust, corrosion, loose connections, etc. Be sure to check the cable ends at the swagged terminals for corrosion under the insulation. Easy to miss.

Based on my electronics and electrical systems training and many years of experience on airplanes and cars, star washers will make a good connection that will usually work just fine, but if you are having problems, then a better connection is to get the grounding point down to clean bare metal at least the same circumference as the cable terminal, then put the terminal down first and then secure with a flat washer and split-ring lock washer followed by covering it all up with something (like clear nail polish) to protect against corrosion.