Clutch Friction Zone
#1
Clutch Friction Zone
My clutch friction zone is at the end of the clutch lever travel. If I want to move it closer to the grip, do I go 1/2 turn or 1 turn at the clutch adjusting screw? Spec is 3/4 turn on mine but, I dont know if I need to go in or out 1/4 turn to change the friction zone. Does this have to be done when the motor is cold ? Thanks
#2
OK 1st you can adjust in at least 2 places.
#1 is to always adjust the clutch pushrod endplay at the clutch basket when there is no pull on the cable and at least 1/2 turn out. You say 3/4 turn so i assume you are talking about the center socket head cap screw and lock nut. Get that to spec which guarantees the clutch will not slip
#2 adjust the cable so your cable at the perch on the handlebar can be pulled out 3/32 to 3/16 (Check your manual). The adjuster for this is under the rubber boot in the front of the front cylinder. Making the adjuster longer reduces the free play at the perch and closing up the adjuster increases free play.
So irregardless of what you want, adjust the clutch hub pushrod to allow the clutch pack to close with no pressure from the pushrod. i like to pull the clutch in several times ten go to the cable adjuster and collapse to make sure the cable is not pulling. Next remove the derby cover and break loose the adjuster lock nut then gently turn the socket head in till it touches then back out to spec and lock the nut. The put the derby cover back on and go to the clutch lever perch. Pull the silver cable end out of the perch to make a gap. Adjust the cable adjuster to close the gap between the cable ferrule and the lever perch to specification.
Now if you want to move friction zone out on the lever, lengthen the cable adjuster. If you want to move the friction zone in on the lever, collapse the cable adjuster.
#1 is to always adjust the clutch pushrod endplay at the clutch basket when there is no pull on the cable and at least 1/2 turn out. You say 3/4 turn so i assume you are talking about the center socket head cap screw and lock nut. Get that to spec which guarantees the clutch will not slip
#2 adjust the cable so your cable at the perch on the handlebar can be pulled out 3/32 to 3/16 (Check your manual). The adjuster for this is under the rubber boot in the front of the front cylinder. Making the adjuster longer reduces the free play at the perch and closing up the adjuster increases free play.
So irregardless of what you want, adjust the clutch hub pushrod to allow the clutch pack to close with no pressure from the pushrod. i like to pull the clutch in several times ten go to the cable adjuster and collapse to make sure the cable is not pulling. Next remove the derby cover and break loose the adjuster lock nut then gently turn the socket head in till it touches then back out to spec and lock the nut. The put the derby cover back on and go to the clutch lever perch. Pull the silver cable end out of the perch to make a gap. Adjust the cable adjuster to close the gap between the cable ferrule and the lever perch to specification.
Now if you want to move friction zone out on the lever, lengthen the cable adjuster. If you want to move the friction zone in on the lever, collapse the cable adjuster.
#3
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89FLHTC (05-03-2016)
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I agree. Following the procedure outlined in the service manual has never let me down. Overthinking this will put you in a rabbit hole....
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