Clutch Friction Zone
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Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Ft.Worth, Texas
Clutch Friction Zone
My clutch friction zone is at the end of the clutch lever travel. If I want to move it closer to the grip, do I go 1/2 turn or 1 turn at the clutch adjusting screw? Spec is 3/4 turn on mine but, I dont know if I need to go in or out 1/4 turn to change the friction zone. Does this have to be done when the motor is cold ? Thanks
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Indiana, USA
OK 1st you can adjust in at least 2 places.
#1 is to always adjust the clutch pushrod endplay at the clutch basket when there is no pull on the cable and at least 1/2 turn out. You say 3/4 turn so i assume you are talking about the center socket head cap screw and lock nut. Get that to spec which guarantees the clutch will not slip
#2 adjust the cable so your cable at the perch on the handlebar can be pulled out 3/32 to 3/16 (Check your manual). The adjuster for this is under the rubber boot in the front of the front cylinder. Making the adjuster longer reduces the free play at the perch and closing up the adjuster increases free play.
So irregardless of what you want, adjust the clutch hub pushrod to allow the clutch pack to close with no pressure from the pushrod. i like to pull the clutch in several times ten go to the cable adjuster and collapse to make sure the cable is not pulling. Next remove the derby cover and break loose the adjuster lock nut then gently turn the socket head in till it touches then back out to spec and lock the nut. The put the derby cover back on and go to the clutch lever perch. Pull the silver cable end out of the perch to make a gap. Adjust the cable adjuster to close the gap between the cable ferrule and the lever perch to specification.
Now if you want to move friction zone out on the lever, lengthen the cable adjuster. If you want to move the friction zone in on the lever, collapse the cable adjuster.
#1 is to always adjust the clutch pushrod endplay at the clutch basket when there is no pull on the cable and at least 1/2 turn out. You say 3/4 turn so i assume you are talking about the center socket head cap screw and lock nut. Get that to spec which guarantees the clutch will not slip
#2 adjust the cable so your cable at the perch on the handlebar can be pulled out 3/32 to 3/16 (Check your manual). The adjuster for this is under the rubber boot in the front of the front cylinder. Making the adjuster longer reduces the free play at the perch and closing up the adjuster increases free play.
So irregardless of what you want, adjust the clutch hub pushrod to allow the clutch pack to close with no pressure from the pushrod. i like to pull the clutch in several times ten go to the cable adjuster and collapse to make sure the cable is not pulling. Next remove the derby cover and break loose the adjuster lock nut then gently turn the socket head in till it touches then back out to spec and lock the nut. The put the derby cover back on and go to the clutch lever perch. Pull the silver cable end out of the perch to make a gap. Adjust the cable adjuster to close the gap between the cable ferrule and the lever perch to specification.
Now if you want to move friction zone out on the lever, lengthen the cable adjuster. If you want to move the friction zone in on the lever, collapse the cable adjuster.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 13,526
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From: Pine Flat Dam/South Bay Area, CA
I agree. Following the procedure outlined in the service manual has never let me down. Overthinking this will put you in a rabbit hole....
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15,435
Likes: 7,127
From: Beyond Fucital
My manual says to adjust it closer to the grip, do it at the clutch basket. 1/2-3/4 turn out past normal setting.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,071
From: Brighton, MI
Use a nickel (5 cent pc) as a gapping tool for where the clutch cable ferrule meets the clutch lever perch/housing. Perfect gap every time. YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; May 3, 2016 at 04:15 PM.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
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From: ct
Adjust the clutch properly as stated above, the slop in the lever can be repaired by replacing the bushing in the lever and more so,the tension piece under the lever, usually plastic and worn/broken. No more slop....
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,358
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Make sure you lock that nut tight. Mine let loose on me last year and the center backed out enough that I had no clutch at all. Went to stop to make a left turn across traffic and I couldn't stop. Luckily the car behind me was paying attentions