I replaced an obsolete Spyke electronic ignition system that the rotor cracked and the pins fell out (see pic). The bike ran fine late last fall prior to the cracked rotor. Bike did not strand me, just went to start it one day and it would not start, lots of backfiring and popping. Did not attempt to fix until this spring since season was over.

Installed S&S Hi-4N ignition kit which includes S&S coil and Accel spiral core wires. Everything went as per the instructions and I am confident I have module, coil and plug wires installed properly. See pics attached. Per the S&S instructions, I used the single "dot" front cylinder 35 deg. advance mark, double checked the position on the new rotor cup per the instructions, then static timed (light off). Module is set at Mode = 1, Advance Rate = 9 and RPM Limit = 5 & 5 per S&S. New VOES is connected directly to the 4N. I bypassed the previously connected wiring harness/plug and ran a ground directly to the frame under seat. Running brand new AC Delco R43XLS plugs gapped to .40. Fully charged battery, new gas (tank was drained, new air filter, all electrical is functioning (dash lights, headlights/signals).


Attached shop tach. Attempted to start. Bike sat all winter so I anticipated a hard start. The Hi-4N red LED was on with ignition switch and the led flashed on and off while cranking the engine. Took some time (combination of enrichener and throttle) but I got it to fire and run and I just got the throttle locked at 2500 RPM to dynamic time per S&S instructions. Within 1-2 mins, before I could start timing via the primary cover, it just died, like the ignition switch was turned off. Tried again. Same result except that when I got it running and it died, I had some sputtering before it died vs. a quick stall. Getting fuel, good spark, just won't start easily and stay running to dynamic time.

Suspected carb, Tore down cleaned and rebuilt with kit per manual. New complete vacuum piston/slide. Set float per spec on 15-20 deg angle. Set air mixture to what it was at tear down 2-1/8 turns out from fully seated. New fuel line. Bike reassembled. Same result. Hard to fire and can't keep it running. Sputters out. Runs long enough to heat up everything by working throttle. Can't idle it.

Only parts to replace on carb is the accelerator pump nozzle (it was cleaned an air blown) and the enrichener/choke/starter valve (cleaned as well). I never had to pump the throttle to start it in the past. I started adjusting the air mixture 1/4 - 1/2 turn, but nothing noticeably different. Put back to starting point.

So that's where I am at, plus $500 lighter in the wallet and frustrated. Unless the old rotor breaking messed something else up, I am at a loss. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

is that ignition switchable between single fire an dual fire? could that be set wrong to match the coil? Have you pulled the plugs an looked at them?

 

Are you certain that the motor was on top dead center of the compression stroke when you set up the ignition? I have always noticed that the ign module is tilted slightly forward, and in your pics, it looks tilted backward. I would re set the ignition module, ensuring that the front cylinder is at tdc of the compression stroke. As Langwilliams said make sure all of the switched are set correct on your ign module.

 

I'm lost. Motor should be TDC for static timing it, not on the 35° mark. Try that again and see what happens.

Griz

 

This is what I was trying to say.

 

The sudden stop could be due to the module overheating and shutting down. I had a pick up truck that behaved like that just before the electronic ignition died.

 

Yep, I am a dumbass. Set static timing to the 35 degree advance mark. Caught that last night when re-reading and watching the S&S video. Went out this AM and set static timing using the TDC mark. Fired right up and when I did the dynamic with light, spot on. I had the 35 degree advance in my head because my light is not adjustable!!!

Ran it 50+ miles today. Love it. Still paid to rebuild carb and replace the vacuum piston, it was not returning very smoothly to begin with.

Ed

 

Glad it worked out for you. I've recently gone through a new ignition install and could tell by your picture that something was a miss with your timing