Buying a properly equipped enclosed trailer for multiple uses is not easy! I figured after all the work I have put into my trailer shopping, I should post it here so that others might possibly benefit from it.

As I have mentioned to some of you, my wife and I are now actively shopping for an enclosed trailer that would fulfill all the following roles:

- Haul the KTM regularly, and sometimes the Harley
- Store the KTM between uses (we have no garage at the cabin we rent)
- Enable taking either the KTM or the Harley (or both) on extended road trips
- Act as a “dry” (no plumbing) RV for overnight, weekend, and extended road trips
- Enable lengthy “scouting trips”, via the dry RV role, to new regions of the USA to consider as future places to live after my “trophy” (appreciably younger than me!) wife joins me in retirement

The concept is to start with a basic 6x12 enclosed cargo trailer with the following features:

6x12: Because this provides enough length and width to haul a bike while also providing the dry RV function. Others may prefer a larger size, but see “Single axle” below before deciding!

Enclosed: Obviously, for security, weatherproofing, to enable the dry RV role, and to enable faster load / unload time cycles (since 4 load or unload processes are required for EACH dirt bike ride)

Single axle (“SA”): This limits the length to either 12 feet (common) or 14 feet (less easy to get), and the GVWR to either 2999 lb (for trailer with no brakes, by law) or 3500 lb (same axle but with electric brakes installed). Since a 6x12 SA trailer weighs between 950 and 1300 lb, this allows a NET carrying capacity of 2200 to 2550 lb inside the trailer. My KTM weighs about 240 lb and the Harley weighs 736, and I have calculated that the maximum load I would ever consider having in the trailer is a total of 1600 lb., so SA is enough trailer. This is important because the price jump from basic SA to basic twin axle (“TA”) is really substantial, and each desirable option related to wheels or suspension is likewise far more costly.

Rear ramp: To enable rolling either bike (KTM or Harley) in or out of the trailer very easily, with no portable ramp setup or securing required. Just drop the ramp door. Ramp doors are standard no-cost chocies on some brands of trailers, but cost $200 more than a swing door on others. Go figure. Even the “standard” ramps are plenty strong enough o handle either a KTM or Harley, as they will typically accept 1500 lb static loads and 2500 lb rolling loads.

Side door: Critical for using the trailer in a dry RV role. Note that trailer side doors come in widths of about 28” to 36” or even 48”, but larger doors (a) weaken the structure and (b) often result in the front wheel or tire chock of a loaded bike becoming a passageway obstacle when the door is open, and (c) limit interior floorplans, so 28” would be “best” for us. Fortunately, that means no option cost.

Recessed RV lock in side door: This is absolutely critical for use as a dry RV. Without it, there is no way of locking or unlocking the side door from inside the trailer! Normal clamp locks on trailers can only be opened or closed from OUTSIDE the trailer! Typically, a $50 to $60 option.

V-Nose: This aero feature is important for reducing fuel consumption in the tow vehicle. Adding a “slope-nose” above the V-nose is even somewhat better, but the cost versus benefit ratio is not as good as for the V-nose. A V-nose can be standard on some trailer brands, and cost as much as $300 or more on other brands.

72 to 78" target interior height: I would be happy with a 6’ interior height since I am only 5’9” in height, but my wife, who is the same height, would prefer a little more free height, and reminds me that both our boys are over 6 feet. Many trailers of this 6x12 size come with 6 foot interior height, but if you want more, the option cost for extra height ca be a smuch as $400 per 6 inches.

Torsion axle with electric brake: Unless you specify differently, the vast majority of cargo trailers are sold with leaf spring suspension, with no shock absorbers whatsoever, and all SA trailers I have been able to find come with NO brakes since they all are stated to be 2999 GVWR (just under the legal 3000 lb limit for trailers with no brakes), even if they have 3500 lb axles on them. This means non-independent suspension, no shock absorber capability, and no brakes on the trailer. That translates to a roguh ride for your bike and everything else in the trailer, and up to a 2999 lb extra load for your tow vehicle’s brakes, and thus longer emergency and non-emergency stopping distances and faster vehicle brake wear. A torsion axle with its built in independent suspension, shock absorbing rubber axle liner, and optional electric brakes seems like a good idea. If the torsion axle and brake are budnled as a package, the option cost is as little as $240 or so, but can be separately priced and total to as much as $600 by other trailer vendors!

EZ lube: These axle caps hold a supply of grease for each bearing, accessible via simply grease zerk fitting hidden behind a rubber cap, and make greasing the bearings regularly WAY easier than any other greasing method I know of. And, tey are standard on many trailers, and cost only about $25 as an option for trailers where they are not standard equipment.

Radial tires: Radial tires run cooler, save towing fuel, ride better, and are in general much higher quality tires. They are also an inexpensive option, costing anywhere from $25 to $50 per tire normally, and $100 per tire from one or two vendors.

Alloy wheels: These don’t corrode like steel dies, and look much nicer, but the option price varies by manufacturer, and even dealer, from about $150 to $500 (!!) per pair. I’d like them, but only if I can get them for the bottom end of that range.

Overhead RV vent framed and rough wired for future air conditioning: This is something that almost no buyer knows about, and that trailer dealers don’t mention until you ask about “future air conditioning”. To install air conditioning in an enclosed trailer, so you can use it as a shop or dry RV even in hot weather, the most practical solution is an RV air conditioner mounted in a “standard” 14”x14” roof vent opening. My wife and I want to add AC, but not now, but rather in the future. It turns out that buying the “overhead RV vent” option is NOT enough. You need to specify “overhead RV vent (at least) framed and (ideally) also rough wired for AC”. This is because (a) standard RV vents are often installed without steel framing around them and that won’t work for AC, and (b) running wiring up to that location is a bit tougher after the fact since all carog trailers have 3/8” plywood paneling inside that is STRUCTURALLY REQUIRED, so getting wiring behind the plywood “later” is tougher. Also, adding the frmaing for the AC later is REALLY expensive, as it needs to be welded in, and that requires temporarily removing the roof panel near it, and you really don’t want to break that roof seal! Believe it or not, the trailer manufactuers charge only $36 to $60 for this option, but no one seems to “know” until you get very detailed in your discussion with a trailer dealer! This feature is an absolute BARGAIN. It’s almost a logic crime to buy a cargo trailer with an RV vent but not specify the framing and rough-in wire. Even if you don’t now intend to ever add AC, you MIGHT, and even if you don’t, you can inexpensively replace the plain vent with a powered “Fantastic” brand fan vent, which will move TONS of air through your trailer!

24" ATP stoneguard front: A 24” high aluminum tread plate stoneguard protects the front of the trailer from all the rocks and crap that your tow vehicle will throw at it. Its cost ranges from “included” to as high as $200.

24" ATP or anodized on sides: Adding 24” of ATP or “bright” anodized sheathing to the sides and sometimes rear of the trailer, not only protects the lower portions of the trailer from corrosion and dings, but also improves the appearance of the trailer about a zillion percent. This normally costs under $200.

12 volt light with wall switch: Many trailers come with one 12 volt interior light as standard, but not always with a wall mounted switch for it. The wall mounted switch is nice when it is dark, and sometimes raining too . . . it costs as little as zero ad as much as $100.

2 of 15x30 windows (1 on each side, positioned high over each fender): If you want to use your trailer as an RV, at least one, but preferably two (for a cross breeze) RV sliding windows are needed. You might think that you could add these “later”, but you’d be wrong. There is no framing structure to support a window in a cargo trailer unless you ORDER the trailer that way from the manufacturer. If you order the windows as part of the build order, each 30” wide by 15” high sliding RV window costs only $99 to $150, complete and installed! But if you try to add them later, think in terms of more than $1000 (no kidding!), because the trailer walls in the vicinity of the proposed windows have to be literally disassembled to enable welding in the required framing. Yes, you have problem read how some folks have nevertheless “done it” somehow, but you face several hours or more per window, and you will have weakened your trailer notably, and you introduce the possibility of water leaks in the rain. By the way, the reasons for placing the windows high on the walls are to improve security (strangers can’t look inside without being REALLY obvious) and to greatly increase the amount of daylight you get into the trailer.

Color preferences: My color preferences are (1) Black or (2) Dark gray or (3) Yellow simply because I like those colors and they are either standard or low cost ($100) options. But, there are also good reasons for choosing a bright and very noticeable color: security and ease of locating your trailer. Bright and noticeable colors, and especially unique colors or multicolor schemes, deter thieves, because they don’t “blend in” when being transported after been stolen, and will always represent a higher risk of being recovered when an alert police officer or ordinary citizen notices them. Some colors are higher extra cost than others. For example, one trailer manufacturer provides a range of 8 colors as standard no charge, a palette of many more for $120 extra, and $180 for “difficult” colors, one of which they consider to be yellow. Who knew? Finally, keep in mind that a dark color heats up noticeably more in bright sunlight than a light color does – Magnum trailers here in Austin, Texas ran a test and the difference after a few hours was about 20 degrees. This si somewhat minimized though if you have the normal reflective roof found on cargo trailers (either aluminum or galvalume) and also if you have the 24” ATP or anodized side wall panels.

Those features listed above are what I consider essential or highly desirable. Other options that I would consider if inexpensive enough:

Rear stabilizer jacks: These keep an SA trailer from tipping rearward when you try to load or unload a bike without the tow vehicle attached! These cost anywhere from $50 to $75 per pair, so don’t be stupid; buy them. They can be either originally fitted, or added at any time.

Slant-nose added to V-nose: The addition of “slant” to “V” makes the trailer even more aero, but the charge can be $180 or more. Note that another plus of the slant is that it makes the trailer look even swoopier thana good paint job can make it look. A disadvantage is that it introduces another caulked joint into the roof, and therefore another potential leak risk.

LED lighting: LED lighting of course has a super long lifetime before burnout compared to normal light bulbs, which is both a safety and convenience plus. Another plus is that LED lighting is also much brighter, which is a huge safety plus. 100% LED exterior lighting typically costs only $75 to $100, so seems like something that makes sense to do.

Instead of or in addition to side wall ATP/anodized, a 2-color paint job with black primary and yellow secondary: A 2–color paint job is a different, or supplemental, way of providing a significantly nicer appearance. There are some really nice paint jobs out there! It also makes the trailer a lower theft target since it is easier for a police officer to spot a 2-tone trailer than a typical black or white one. And, it makes it easier for you yourself to try to track down your stolen trailer and identify it easily before coming up to inspect the VIN. Cost ranges from about $200 and up, and can get QUITE costly with some color & pattern schemes and some manufacturers.

Here is one example of a pretty spiffy paint job coupled with both bright sides and sloped nose / V-nose:





Sidewall vents front and rear: When hauling a bike, it is pretty important to have "flow through" ventilation to prevent possible buildup of gasoline fumes. These are mounted near floor level, at the front driver side and at the rear curb side, to sweep fresh air through the trailer, especially when moving on the highway. They also discourage the buildup of humidity and moisture, which can be destructive to the plywood walls of the trailer and to the trailer contents. If not standard, these typically only cost $60 or so.

No matter what trailer you buy, you need to pay attention to trailer WEIGHT. In my case, the “target” trailer will weigh somewhere between 950 and 1300 lb empty, and 2550 to 2900 lb loaded as much as I can possibly envision. That is a decently easy pull for my 2014 F-150 with variable valve timing 3.7 liter V-6, 6-speed automatic transmission with trailer tow mode, 3.73 axle, and trailer tow package designed for up to 6600 lb. per the new SAE towing standard.

So far so good.

BUT, here is where it gets tricky. VERY tricky.

If you look on eBay or Craigslist, you’ll see MANY 6x12 carog trailers for sale for $2000 and up. However, NONE of them anywhere near that $2000 figure, and NONE of them actually in stock for immediate purchase at a dealership, will have any significant number of the features and options I have listed. They are “strippers”, stocked and advertised to bring in buyers who do little research and buy on price alone. I can virtually guarantee you that almost none of them have torsion axles, and that none of the SA trailers have brakes. I know for a fact after long searches that absolutely none of them have any windows whatsoever (because most people don’t envision using a cargo trailer as the basis for a simple dry RV). No one orders the overhead vent framing and rough-in wire, because almost nobody knows about it. Very few buyers ask for the recessed RV lock, until after they have owned a trailer withOUT it.

It looks to me that I will need to order a trailer and wait several weeks for its arrival (which is no problem for me). And, it looks like I will need to spend well over $3000 to get my preferred options, and I could, if I was foolish, spend as much as $5000 and get no better a trailer, just one with a higher dealer markup.

The trickier part is getting a trailer salesperson to give me a serious quote on exactly what combination of options I want. It’s just way easier for him or her to simply sell what is already in stock at the dealership to a buyer who has not thought through everything he or she is going to try to do with that trailer or in that trailer.

Today, I think I may finally get serious quotes from sales people I have visited to show my seriousness about buying, but it has been an epic to get to this point. I’ve had to do a LOT of my own research, and am actually pointing things out to experienced sales people that they had not known, because they simply set the selling bar pretty low at most dealerships.

If YOU are considering buying an enclosed trailer for your bike and for other purposes, maybe my research can help you a bit, and make the task easier for you than it has been for me.

Jim G

 

Jim,
IMHO, it is not easy because of all this criteria you have mentioned....you may have to modify some of your wants and reduce the size of your list. I'm on your side, as I'm looking for a trailer as well!

 

Yeah, I know, but WHAT should I give up?

- Brakes?

- Ability to lock and unlock door with a key from inside, when I plan to sleep in it?

- Windows, so no daylight, no fresh air, no ability to see what is going on outside my trailer when I hear noises at night?

- Prep for furture AC, so I can never add AC to it, and so never use it when/where it is hot outside?

See what I mean?

Jim G

 

Today I am working on my trailer to get it the way I need it. I started with a 24' Featherlite car carrier (8.5" wide) & 30' LOA that weighs in at 3,500#.

Started off like this now to add the A/C and electrical panel w/outlets inside and out using shore power 30A SS couplers which will work for either shore power or generator. I use a EU3000 Honda & a 2500W Honda using 2 different circuits in one box.

You need a counter and work bench so I purchased a set of doors and made a 5/8" X2 plywood glued & screwed base with galvanized steel top as aluminum is too soft and galls when dragging steel over it.

You need lots of electric receptacles unless you are tripping over extension cords.



You need opening windows or you are living in a sealed tin can. I needed an inside shower that will not take up room. A volume switch and diverter to either navy shower or return to the water tank. I installed a pair of 30 Gal water tanks that fit inside of the floor joyce's and are flush with the bottom of them for ground clearance.

Instillation (1" R-6) rigid throughout, 3) T-5 florescent 4' fixtures & it is bright! Monitor that also acts as a TV or computer.

Cheep HF chalks work very well. I use 2 rows of A Track (front flush with cabinet doors & in the middle + on the floor on each side along the back for rear wheel strapping.


The shower assy is installed and works like this. Water Tank(s) > water pump > accumulator > to the rear [& T for a tap on the right side of the trailer for cleaning & food prep] than with water quick disconnects into a Zodi propane hot water heater than into the shower volume switch (controls water temperature) than into a diverter to either put into the shower head or back to the water tank. Remember water conservation is important.

You got to have a main control switch panel & front speakers.

7' ceiling is skinned, shower curtain track on ceiling, 12V LED's (about 7 w/switches) insulation is all in and ready to put in the following before skinning the interior this week.


A removable hinged shower pan can be stored in the garage when not in use or in the upright position against the trailer wall than rotated to the floor (using the hinges with a drain that is accessed by unscrewing a pie hatch. A funnel and a 90º elbow diverts the water to the side and into a Barker Tote-Along Portable Grey Water Holding Tank.



3 horizontal white powder coated E-Track running on both sides of the trailer, the bottom one acts as a toe kick also are going back on after the interior skin is on (see 1st page).

2 vents so you do not die of oxygen depletion when using a propane heater (Big Buddy) as I live in FL and we have no snow but gets cold up north FL.

Removable Flag holders on rear & side configuration.

Electric & vent for a Natures (composting) Head.

Soffeting to hide wiring & mount LED & florescent lighting & rear speakers.

Installed a pair Amps (1 sub)

Rear view camera

I I purchased a Queen size Frontgate (you need 110V)

I hope to get this done by the weekend or after Daytona.

 

FastHarley: You are way more ambitious than I am on features in your trailer! Sounds like it should be really nice traveling once you finish it up! I am looking forward to hearing your "maiden voyage" report!

My Dad was a house builder, so I know how much work you are having to do, and how it is complicated by the fact that it has to be a self-contained trailer.

The pairing of the generators at the panel is unusual. Most people just parallel them and then connect one of them to the panel. The theory is that two generators working together to start the air conditioner do a better job than one generator trying to handle the starting amps.

I don't know if you have settled on a cooktop, but I would draw your attention to a "Duxtop" cooktop. It is only about a square foot by 3 inches high, plugs into 115 volt receptacle, and heats incredibly fast and with no heating of the room via conductive heating of only the pot or pan. Costs $69 at Amazon!

Jim G

 

@ Jim,
Check out this site. Go to the Cargo Trailer Conversions area. A lot of good ideas here.
http://www.tnttt.com/index.php


It is funny that you should post this because I have just started thinking about doing some things to my 6x12 cargo. I really just wanted to be able to shower, but that seemed to snowball into a lot more.
If I was buying a new trailer, I would definitely go with that modified sloped/v nose. I tow with a full sized GMC van 350cid, and the flat nose trailer feels like a parachute back there!


@FastHarley,
Thanks for posting your work here, I think I'll steal that hinged shower pan idea form you! Please post more pics if your work progresses.

 

Thank-you!. I will.

Jim G

 

OMG....did not realize that there is so much to this! Great write ups and pictures! Keep them coming! My idea is to "create" a (container, trailer, enclosed something??) to ship my trike to Hawaii along with our household belongings (no furniture) and then reuse this container as a work space/office, storage, or to have a small business from the space. Maybe I'm trying to many functions for a used container?

 

Your biggest challenge may be getting approval to place that container in a residential, or even commercial, area. Most residential areas have development or city covenants that prohibit cargo trailers let alone immobile containers. You'll need to do some research before you buy or rent.

Even many commercial storage facilities require any outside storage to be mobile (no cars that don't run, no containers).

Jim G

 

You're quite ambitious. Reminds me of a toy hauler.

I'm converting my new 5' X 12' enclosed trailer into a "sleeper". When camping at parks there is always a public toilet and shower. Going to be using an inflatable style bed much like in the video. Park the bike outside with a cover for overnights.

The trailer I bought last year with ramp back door and a side door, which I will simply hasp lock from the inside, is just big enough for my bagger and a little room to move around in it when parked inside. Plans are to be adding two RV style windows and a simple AC plug in electrical system through the wall. Being "transportable" we will not be running full electrics, only need a single 4-way outlet inside. Need to get the upper / lower air flow vents in. Probably will have a small, drop in the window opening, cheap home-style air conditioner.

We prefer to trailer the bike to a destination and then camping for a while in the area.

Sold the Travel Trailer last year. So much prep to use it. We use to only take 4 or more day stays in it, without the bike. Using just the bike a 3 day getaway is the best for us.

Hope to use the sleeper / bike trailer to cut down on beating the highways on the bike to get to a destination. I'll be able to share driving to and from a destination with the wife, and should have all the "just in case" situations covered. Like if I became ill she can drive, or rain days we aren't stuck with just the bike to get around. Hopefully no break downs, but if so we can trailer the bike and continue our journey.