Good afternoon everyone.

Here's my issue. Since I've owned my 2007 FXDL, I've gone through 3 batteries, (on the third actually) and 3 headlight bulbs(may not be related).

Once again, the bike is having trouble cranking, and the dash lights have begun to flicker. Just the tach/speedo lights though. The headlight is not dimming, nor the taillight or gas gauge light.

I have removed the turn signals in the past, so I do not know about those.

I read an article on line that told me to remove the negative cable, and check for continuity between the cable and the post. There was, so I one at a time removed the fuses. When I removed the battery fuse, the tone stopped. Anyone know what that means?

Also. The negative screw seems like it needs to be cleaned up a bit, same with the terminal. But I don't understand this, as the screw was put on correctly to begin with.

Can anyone give me some ideas as to where to look, or what to look for? I checked the ground under the battery box, and the one on the handlebars. I was able to tighten the handle bar ground a bit, but the one under the battery box was good and tight.
I can see another ground behind the battery box, under the seat, but have not got to it yet, as I need to remove the battery box to get access.

Any help would be appreciated, these batteries are not cheap as I'm sure you're aware.

Thank you!

edit: post #9 for resolution

 

Was the problem existing prior to removal of the turn signals?

 

I lack the technical knowledge to help you. However, if you do not use a battery tender and keep your bike plugged whenever it is not ridden, do so.

 

Yes I use a battery tender.

The issue was existing prior to the turn signal removal.

The bike hesitates now during acceleration, or cruising, similar to what it did about a year and a half ago.

 

If any one could tell me what i should be looking at for the "battery" circuit, that's mainly what I'm looking for.

I saw that it goes to the ignition at least, on the wiring diagram.
I am hoping to pull the fuse box out and see if theres any pinched wires behind it maybe. And removal of the battery box. Under the seat is difficult to work with as I'm sure a lot of you are aware.

Any help, tips, warnings, would be greatly appreciated. TY

 

Do you check the tightness of your battery cables regularly? On an "A" motor they come loose rather quickly and a loose cable will exhibit the same effect, although I do not think it would be enough to kill the battery.

Drew

 

a bad ground, bad ground cable, or corroded connections will certainly cause a battery to not fully charge though. +1 on what Drew said above.

1. inspect cable and ends; clean, tighten ground cable at battery
2. inspect cable and ends; clean, tighten ground cable at bike frame
3. inspect, clean, apply dielectric grease, and tighten ECM main plug

also there is a harness that runs forward under the console for your speedo and tach. inspect the wiring under there and while you have it up, go ahead and remove the two plugs for the speedo and tach, make sure they're clean and apply dielectric grease to them.

 

Have you ever checked your charging syste, to be sure it's charging correctly?

 

Thought I would post what I think fixed this.

I started looking for stripped wires and such. I pulled the headlight out and checked the wires, they looked good. Removed the battery box, and checked the two grounds behind it, they were both clean and tight. Checked the other two grounds that I know about. One under the battery box, the other on the handlebars. Both good.
I cleaned the battery cables, though they looked fine, same with the terminals.
Still no luck.
I cleaned all the fuses in the fuse box, and wow. The headlight that I thought was burnt out started to work again, the bike cranked right up, even in low 30s (previously it would turn reaaally slowly), the dash wasn't flickering. There was no more hesitation. And I could not find a drain on the battery anymore. (by removing the positive, hooking up the negative, testing the positive post to lead).

So I guess it's as simple as that. I hope. The fuses had a fair amount of corrosion on them. It was like 50/50 trying to find a clean spot to test continuity. I guess after 30,000 miles, and riding in the rain quite often (not on purpose) corrosion builds up pretty quick when not protected like a car.

Thanks all for your help! Hope this helps someone in the future.