Yeah I run closed end cap and currently 22 discs. I have great low end with the closed cap and doesn't feel like I'm missing anything up high either. Honestly, I can't tell much of a difference between the tunes I run, including when I run ones I've autotuned. Currently I'm just running the stock VEs with my tweaked, rich AFR table, and it's running just fine. I wish I had access to a dyno for real numbers though. I have had to continue to pull back timing to get rid of knocks though. I have noticed some decrease in power from that. The only thing that seems to really help knocking is running an all open loop map. Course it's over 100 degrees here these days, so I'm sure that's the main problem. I bet I won't have any knocks in the winter.

 

I am doing the same thing on the timing also.
I pulled some out , 4 times and I am pretty close. and fuel tablet was in the 14.3 cruise area
But I drop the 14.3 closed loop area too 13.8 and it runs cooler and little more power I feel it. Those timing tables where fine also in the cooler months But when summer hit The Knock count started getting hits, So I decided to try open loop tune. The other thing was I dropped Fuel mileage a little from,,51 to 47.5 but a big drop for losing about 10 degrees on Engine temps. I fell it was a good change overall. Bike runs very well with 91 octane no pings any more,cooler and still getting 47.5 mpg
I couldn't be happier with my lower VE's than stock Power Vision a great tool I trust it 100 percent.

 

I think what most don't consider/realize is that stock tables are not 100% perfect. There's no way the VE's can be set up for different regions of the country, high elevation, low elevation, states with crap gas, etc. So the stock VE's are somehwere close and the ECM is expected to compensate for differences. So, your lower VE's are just what the bike wants for YOUR set of variables. Thus, a great running bike. The stock VE tables are in no way an accurate tool to use as a comparison. For the most part it's gee wiz information that means nothing. If folks would just trust the system and stop second guessing things they would save themselves alot of grief. A stage 1 set up isn't going change much. Studies have been done that show where a filter may flow 10% more, however, if that 10% is never getting into the chamber then that particular filter is not flowing 10% more INTO the engine. It's marketing hype that folks don't always realize. But, if your VE's went down in some areas and the bike is running great the tool did it's job. As someone recently posted, his VE's changed less than 1% from a PV tune to a pro tune using the PV. That should be enough validation that PV does it's job quite well. Glad to hear your bike is running good with the PV tune.

 

I actually came to this same conclusion recently when I was looking at the stock AFR table which is about 80% closed loop. They intended to rely so heavily on feedback from the O2s, they don't really care how accurate the VE tables are. It starts to matter when you run a mostly open loop map.

 

I noticed while I am doing a basic autotune run I see NBF 0 and NBR 0 on the screen along with the VE+ etc. Does that mean there is an issue with my narrow band sensors?

 

O means the Sensors are in open loop and looking for data. if you are seeing VE's populate you are good.

 

I assumed that was the meaning but when you do a basic auto tune isn't the whole a/f ratio table set to 14.6 and timing reduced 4 degrees across the board? Where is it open loop then? I get different results comparing basic mode and advanced mode tuning. My wide band sensors are fresh as are my NB ones. Just installed a Ful Sac DX pipe and trying to get it dialed in.

 

It doesn't take much to come out of closed loop. It takes less than most realize to hit 80,90, 100 kPa, even WITHOUT opening the throttle 100% either. More than likely you're whacking the throttle to hard and it's coming out of closed loop. Obviously, it won't be collecting data. The proper way to collect data is with a slow and steady throttle, filling one block and moving on to the next.

VE+ means the VE's are changing too fast. When you see that either back off the throttle slightly, or open it up a little. You should see VE+ disappear and the screen light up and start collecting data again. Just remember, the key is a slow and steady right wrist.

 

A bit of Power Vision info today:

2015 Support Has Arrived!……..and more

Key Updates:

2015 Model Year Support
Calibrations for 2015 Models, including Street 500 and 750
Trip Center (Instant MPG, Trip A/B) support for software level 614 and 617 (2014 and 2015 Touring Models respectively)
Memory warning for extended logging, the Power Vision will warn you when you have 20% memory left
Support for software level 375
Supports streaming data from J1850 or HD-LAN models to Dynoware RT / Power Core
Added Autotune Lambda / AFR Signal support for Dynoware RT / Power Core Software

Be sure to use the Power Vision Update Client to get the latest firmware (PV_FIRMWARE-2.0.9-1439) and tune database (PV_TUNEDB-0.0.9.28).

 

FM Thanks for posting.