I haven't tried it out side yet . Been thinking the cable thing as well. I have a call into Fuel Moto but needed to do the testing over the weekend to get them more data.

 

Need advice,, I had my dyno done and finally bike runs well and found someone that can tune with my PV. I have a 107 build . I did lose about 100km about 63miles to a tank compared to a stock 103"... I'm wondering if I can make a highway cruising Map with just lowering the VE table valiues by 4 at throttle position from 30-60% at rpm 2250-3000rpm or change AFR table to 14.5 in those ranges.. Do I just change AFR table and leave the VE table of both front and back cyl alone ? I assume I will lose some power and throttle response if I do this but really would like little better highway mileage on long trips.... Any suggestions? I an running open loop so stock oxygen sensors not used and I don't have AT which I wish I did...

 

OK am I correct with the assumption that turning on the EITMS control in the Tweaks section of the quick tune section of the PV, I can turn on the ability for the EMC to shut fuel flow to the rear cylinder for cooling during idle to keep the rear cylinder cool?
I know my 2012 Fatboy has this capability and it can be turned on and off by the dealership. But is this EITMS the same capability?

 

Yes. You can also tell it what temp to turn on. Or disable it by setting temp way high like 560.

 

Leave the VE's alone (you paid good money to get em right) You can set your AFR anywhere you like. I.E. cruising at 14.4 = good milage.

 

 

On my '13 FXDWG I run the cable above the tank (under the the tank bib/chrome molding where the power and speedo are mounted), then I snake it under the seat. It was a bit of a pain to finally get it done, but, I haven't had and connection issues with it.

Also, check the power/connections to the ECM as well as the "alarm" system. The fob batteries are new now and still having the issue, so possibly that. The only time I ever had that issue was when batteries were dying.

Let us know how it works.

 

yeh as Smokey said, don't touch those VE's since they are tuned to the engine. you don't need AT either as all it will do is whack your dyno-tuned VE's. Although, realize when you go with larger inches and bigger cam, you use more air / fuel and mileage goes down.

Adjust AFR table only, set the area of 30-70kpa and 2250-3000 rpm to 14.2 or 14.4. Granted, 13.8 will give you better power but 14.2-14.4 can be an acceptable trade-off on economy. You can also set your idle and low RPM/low MAP area to 14.2-14.4 but watch for increased engine temps if you do a lot of idling around town. Richer will lower ET's, on my town bike I run 13.1 at idle and just off idle.

 

For me it is PV related. Again removing the PV the issue never happens
I have provided several files and information to FM and they are going to contact DynoJet.

I went as far has routing the cable from under the seat along my leg up to the handle bars and it still happens.

 

Interested to see what fix you come up with for this. I get the "no fob" occasionally also. I replaced the batteries and still happens.