This weekend I decatted a factory header on my 14 Limited. Not that the job was super easy, but very do-able.
I used a portable band saw to cut vertically half way through the pipe. I then used an air angle grinder with a 1/16" cut off wheel to make the horizontal cuts. Pried the new cut window out and proceeded to remove the cat material.
I used an air chisel to remove it and rough clean it. I then used an angle grinder with wheels and stones to final clean it.
I then mig welded the window back in. The whole process was about 2 hours. That being said, I started with an extra factory pipe so I hadn't pulled my stock one off yet.

I proceeded to swap out the pipes and o2 sensors, that part was easy. I already had Rinehart 4" muffs on the bike. The bike sounds like what I was looking for.

For all the talk on here about pipes and tuners, I believed I would absolutely have to have one. It's not so. My bike has perfectly smooth acceleration, no decel pop, no lag, no nothing that I was expecting. The ecm corrected itself almost immediately. I could actually smell the richer exhaust while the bike was warming up. It runs great. I don't see where I have to do anything further to make it run right.

Although I will still put a tuner on it in the near future to correct engine heat and a typical lean condition with epa compliant tunes.

I would recommend this anyone with a Delphi controlled efi bike

 

This is the info I was looking for.

I have a friend that offered a stock header de-catted in exchange for my header.

If it doesn't hurt anything I'm all for it. I will eventually get a power commander but want to wait for winter to do it.

 

The exhaust smell changes with the cat removed doesn't mean your engine is running richer, if that is what you are saying.
I'd say you need a tuner.

 

I did the same thing last week but i added a 6 1/2 x 1 3/4 pipe to the front cylinder pipe in the chamber, Ran great without a tune. Did 3 PV auto tunes and it's runs awesome.

 

It naturally runs richer during warm up, due to being in open loop. Without the cat, you can smell the difference, where before you could not.

I just came back from a 60 mile ride and I have to say, I'm impressed. The slight stumble that was typical during acceleration, is now gone. When I twist it, it just goes. Also, the pipe heat under the passenger floorboard is all but gone.

Again, I will add a tuner in the near future, to get it where I want it.

 

Did you add the pipe to help prevent o2 crosstalk?

I know there is a lot of talk about that as well, however logically, I don't see it being a problem. The o2's are staggered and while it is now an empty chamber, you may get swirl, but I don't see it being an issue since they are staggered and behind the chamber.

Not saying your approach wouldn't be cheap insurance

 

You didn't say anything about whether you have an hi-flow air cleaner or not. When you add air more than likely the tune will be needed to prevent lean condition and running issues.

What goes out isn't the issue, it's what goes in is when issues arise ...........

 

Absolutely... I still have the stock air filter and housing. When I do a tuner, the ac will be in that upgrade

 

Anyone have a pic or two. Size of window and location specifically. I have access to a plasma cutter. Pulling my pipe off tomorrow.

Anything will help. Just like to do a things right.

 

I unfortunately did not take pics. I really should have. I will tell you that the cuts I made were about 3/4" to the inside of the factory welds at the cat chamber and the welds after the o2's. I used a portable band saw to make those vertical cuts. The band saw left a very narrow cut. I then used a 1/16" cut off wheel for the horizontal cuts. Doing it this way, I lost very little material in the cuts.

You will find that an air chisel is the easiest and quickest way to get that cat material out. It's stuck like no other.