Quick question.. I have searched the forum here and there is a ton of how to adjust clutch and I got the manual... but I started sifting thru all the posts and turned mostly how to adjust... but it didn't answer my question.

When I do the adjustment cold and "seat" the allen bolt (how hard is this supposed to seat??) then back it out 1/2 turn lock the nut, pull the lever 3 times to seat the ball, and put the cover back down... adjust my cable for about 1/8 play... well all works... except the clutch is engaging later now. Further away from the bar then it was before. I am not getting any slippage etc... I am just used to the clutch starting to engage just a little off from the bar as I start to engage it. It defintely is disengaging fully

Which way do I go after I lightly seat the allen bolt... > 1/2 or <1/2? Or am I really missing the point here...

Thanks in advance

 

When you do this adjustment first collapse your cable adjuster (screw it all the way in) Then loosen the clutch adjuster allen then tighten it until you fell it touch something. Then back out a full turn then tighten a half turn. Now lock it down, then adjust the cable adjuster do your 3 squuezes and lock it down you should be good to go. So to answer your question 1/2 out or full turn out half back.

 

Thanks for the reply... I did do the cable collapse first BTW. The only difference then is that I was screwing the allen in to I felt some resistance, then back out 1/2 turn vice going back 1 full then in 1/2. That would be the same as going out a full turn, then back in half would it not? I guess what I am asking is when I disengage the clutch by squezing it, how do I make it so that it disengages later... or once fully squezed and disengaged completely, how do I get it so it starts the friction zone earlier when I start to re-engage the clutch... do I do less then the 1/2 turn or more then the 1/2 turn? I can go play with it once it cools down from my ride home.

Edit: I am home now so I got to look at the manual... It says 1 full turn to 1/2 turn... why 1/2 is stuck on my brain I dunno... so I will try the 1 full turn.

 

I also tried to adjust mine according to the manual and it didn't turn out well. There is a post in here somewhere that has you holding the clutch lever in using slight pressure and then screwing in the adjuster until the clutch lever starts to force itself away from the handlebar. You then lock it down and adjust the clutch lever to about a 1/8in of play. Worked like a charm. Clutch has been fine ever since. Kind of an idiot proof way of adjusting the clutch which is exactly what I needed. It took all the guess work out of the adjustment.

 

To get it to grab or as you put it "in the friction zone" closer to the bars , you increase the amount of turns that you turn the adjuster counterclockwise after lightly seating the adjuster, ie. 3/4 instead of 1/2 turn after lightly seating the adjuster.If done to excess, you may see more clunking when shifting because the plates are not seperating enough. You get better shifting if it is adjusted to grab half way or a bit more from the bars cause the seperation of the plates is better.
After lightly seating the allen bolt, you would turn counter clockwise to increase freeplay which would bring the friction zone closer to the bars.

 

Got it ... thanks!

 

Mine has always kinda clunked when shifting...and it always has started to grab just off the bars. Are you saying that adjusting it so it grabs a little farther out may help the clunking some?

 

Jrudicel, actually I think it does. When it was new nuetral was so hard to find and the clutch started to engage real close to the bar... makes me think the clutch was not fully disengaging when I squezed the clutch handle in. When I did the adjustment and had it backed off 1/2 turn nuetral was so easy to find and shifting was great, but I like the clutch to start engaging earlier... and just was not sure if the adjustment needed to be closer to the seating or further. I adjusted it last night for 1 full turn counter clockwise after seating and it is perfect now, it starts to engage just a bit from the bars like I wanted and nuetral is easy to find. I really appreciate the responses and the knowledge in the forum. Thanks guys.

 

It will help to minimize it because you get a better seperation of the plates but it will not eliminate it completely. Think of it this way, If the "friction zone" happens further away from the bars (although it may be a bit more uncomfortable on the hand) it will have more travel in the clutch area to seperate the plates. You'll also find neutral easier too. Just be sure to have the proper free play at the lever.