Upgraded factory sounds need help tuning amp
#1
02-22-2017, 11:46 PM
Upgraded factory sounds need help tuning amp
Bike is a 2011 FLHX street glide , So I finally swapped out my factory speakers for some 6.5's with the adapters to run them. I went with the Hertz HCX 165 and am running a punch PBR300X2,
I need to know what the Gain and frequency should be set at to get the most out of these hertz 2 way coaxial speakers cause from what I hear around town is that these are the way to go.
Help please !! I don't want to blow these speakers on a wrong setting .
I need to know what the Gain and frequency should be set at to get the most out of these hertz 2 way coaxial speakers cause from what I hear around town is that these are the way to go.
Help please !! I don't want to blow these speakers on a wrong setting .
#2
02-22-2017, 11:54 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
Bike is a 2011 FLHX street glide , So I finally swapped out my factory speakers for some 6.5's with the adapters to run them. I went with the Hertz HCX 165 and am running a punch PBR300X2,
I need to know what the Gain and frequency should be set at to get the most out of these hertz 2 way coaxial speakers cause from what I hear around town is that these are the way to go.
Help please !! I don't want to blow these speakers on a wrong setting .
I need to know what the Gain and frequency should be set at to get the most out of these hertz 2 way coaxial speakers cause from what I hear around town is that these are the way to go.
Help please !! I don't want to blow these speakers on a wrong setting .
The following users liked this post:
pj_baller00 (02-23-2017)
#3
02-23-2017, 12:03 AM
Gain on that amp should be 5 to 5.5 No more no less. Wish you would have came here first bro. We would have advised a better amp with the Hertz speakers. That amp only pushes 100W @ 4 ohms to those speakers. They need more power to sound like they are supposed to sound. Until you can get another amp. Keep the gain on that amp at 5.5. Run the frequency on HP and cross em over @ 80HZ.
Thanks again for all the info, GREAT STUFF!!
#4
02-23-2017, 12:19 AM
Ultimate HDF Member
This is a excellent amp for those speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136984...c&awug=9016148
You will run it in bridge mode.
What head unit are you running and what is this "converter" you speak of? Do you have a pic? I assume it's a line leveler but you never know these days. lol
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136984...c&awug=9016148
You will run it in bridge mode.
What head unit are you running and what is this "converter" you speak of? Do you have a pic? I assume it's a line leveler but you never know these days. lol
#5
02-23-2017, 12:31 AM
This is a excellent amp for those speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136984...c&awug=9016148
You will run it in bridge mode.
What head unit are you running and what is this "converter" you speak of? Do you have a pic? I assume it's a line leveler but you never know these days. lol
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136984...c&awug=9016148
You will run it in bridge mode.
What head unit are you running and what is this "converter" you speak of? Do you have a pic? I assume it's a line leveler but you never know these days. lol
#6
02-23-2017, 12:34 AM
This is a excellent amp for those speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136984...c&awug=9016148
You will run it in bridge mode.
What head unit are you running and what is this "converter" you speak of? Do you have a pic? I assume it's a line leveler but you never know these days. lol
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136984...c&awug=9016148
You will run it in bridge mode.
What head unit are you running and what is this "converter" you speak of? Do you have a pic? I assume it's a line leveler but you never know these days. lol
#7
02-23-2017, 12:51 AM
so here's the worry behind a too small amp- if you don;t have enough clean watts, the amp will "square wave" instead of making the nice sine wave it is supposed to.
1.) the squared off wave will sound distorted
2.) the speaker will move to the end of it's travel- then hold for a moment, then move to the other extreme and hold etc. each of these holds can allow the voicecoil to overheat- the speaker needs to move to cool the voicecoil.
at moderate sound levels, you will be just fine.
those speakers are rated for 100w continuous power- which is what that amp will do.
lower frequencies require alot more power than mid or high to reproduce.
so start easy and don;t try to get a lot of bass out of the system.
you can get the manual on the RF website
you know what the gain does louder/quieter- as about around 5 should be close ( although I don;t know what interface you have- the Punch can be run off your speaker outputs- no box)
LP means low pass- the only sound which will pass are below the frequency selected -most often used for dedicated subs
AP means all pass- the **** does nothing
HP means high pass, only frequencies above the setting on the **** will pass, most often used for dedicated mid range/tweeter type things with another amp on subwoofers
( this is what the other Forum Member suggested using and setting it at 80Hertz his suggestion was based on the idea of saving you from trying to get too much bass out and hurting your nice speakers, I would probably set this to 50Hz...but I work with sound for a living and would be aware f any problems if I had to change this)
if you have one of the punch remote *****, disconnect or turn to "0"
what I would do is start with gain all the way down and do the HP trick
turn on your head unit and play music you know...a cd
turn the radio, vol to 5, bass 5, treble 5
and sneak up the volume- hopefully you have sound from both speakers and they are in phase (+ to +, - to - etc.)
if all seems good, turn up the gain on the amp until you are deef or you hear any distortion, if so back off a bit.
on the head unit turn off the AVC !
You want to be careful with the volume on the head unit, if your setting there is too high- the signal coming out and going to the amp could be distorted, and the amp will reproduce that distortion along with your music
from here, you should be pretty good- if not post back and we can work on that.
The variable is your interface box-- I dont know what it does, does it have a name or controls on it?
and lastly- I have bought 2 of these punches in the last few weeks,,,and I need a deal on one more.
If you decide to get another amp, we can deal on yours.
i have one in my bike, put one in my RV and we are now looking at adding exterior speakers to the rv- so I am after a third
I'd PM you but you need a few more posts before that option opens up
mike
1.) the squared off wave will sound distorted
2.) the speaker will move to the end of it's travel- then hold for a moment, then move to the other extreme and hold etc. each of these holds can allow the voicecoil to overheat- the speaker needs to move to cool the voicecoil.
at moderate sound levels, you will be just fine.
those speakers are rated for 100w continuous power- which is what that amp will do.
lower frequencies require alot more power than mid or high to reproduce.
so start easy and don;t try to get a lot of bass out of the system.
you can get the manual on the RF website
you know what the gain does louder/quieter- as about around 5 should be close ( although I don;t know what interface you have- the Punch can be run off your speaker outputs- no box)
LP means low pass- the only sound which will pass are below the frequency selected -most often used for dedicated subs
AP means all pass- the **** does nothing
HP means high pass, only frequencies above the setting on the **** will pass, most often used for dedicated mid range/tweeter type things with another amp on subwoofers
( this is what the other Forum Member suggested using and setting it at 80Hertz his suggestion was based on the idea of saving you from trying to get too much bass out and hurting your nice speakers, I would probably set this to 50Hz...but I work with sound for a living and would be aware f any problems if I had to change this)
if you have one of the punch remote *****, disconnect or turn to "0"
what I would do is start with gain all the way down and do the HP trick
turn on your head unit and play music you know...a cd
turn the radio, vol to 5, bass 5, treble 5
and sneak up the volume- hopefully you have sound from both speakers and they are in phase (+ to +, - to - etc.)
if all seems good, turn up the gain on the amp until you are deef or you hear any distortion, if so back off a bit.
on the head unit turn off the AVC !
You want to be careful with the volume on the head unit, if your setting there is too high- the signal coming out and going to the amp could be distorted, and the amp will reproduce that distortion along with your music
from here, you should be pretty good- if not post back and we can work on that.
The variable is your interface box-- I dont know what it does, does it have a name or controls on it?
and lastly- I have bought 2 of these punches in the last few weeks,,,and I need a deal on one more.
If you decide to get another amp, we can deal on yours.
i have one in my bike, put one in my RV and we are now looking at adding exterior speakers to the rv- so I am after a third
I'd PM you but you need a few more posts before that option opens up
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 02-23-2017 at 01:19 AM.
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#8
02-23-2017, 06:12 AM
so here's the worry behind a too small amp- if you don;t have enough clean watts, the amp will "square wave" instead of making the nice sine wave it is supposed to.
1.) the squared off wave will sound distorted
2.) the speaker will move to the end of it's travel- then hold for a moment, then move to the other extreme and hold etc. each of these holds can allow the voicecoil to overheat- the speaker needs to move to cool the voicecoil.
at moderate sound levels, you will be just fine.
those speakers are rated for 100w continuous power- which is what that amp will do.
lower frequencies require alot more power than mid or high to reproduce.
so start easy and don;t try to get a lot of bass out of the system.
you can get the manual on the RF website
you know what the gain does louder/quieter- as about around 5 should be close ( although I don;t know what interface you have- the Punch can be run off your speaker outputs- no box)
LP means low pass- the only sound which will pass are below the frequency selected -most often used for dedicated subs
AP means all pass- the **** does nothing
HP means high pass, only frequencies above the setting on the **** will pass, most often used for dedicated mid range/tweeter type things with another amp on subwoofers
( this is what the other Forum Member suggested using and setting it at 80Hertz his suggestion was based on the idea of saving you from trying to get too much bass out and hurting your nice speakers, I would probably set this to 50Hz...but I work with sound for a living and would be aware f any problems if I had to change this)
if you have one of the punch remote *****, disconnect or turn to "0"
what I would do is start with gain all the way down and do the HP trick
turn on your head unit and play music you know...a cd
turn the radio, vol to 5, bass 5, treble 5
and sneak up the volume- hopefully you have sound from both speakers and they are in phase (+ to +, - to - etc.)
if all seems good, turn up the gain on the amp until you are deef or you hear any distortion, if so back off a bit.
on the head unit turn off the AVC !
You want to be careful with the volume on the head unit, if your setting there is too high- the signal coming out and going to the amp could be distorted, and the amp will reproduce that distortion along with your music
from here, you should be pretty good- if not post back and we can work on that.
The variable is your interface box-- I dont know what it does, does it have a name or controls on it?
and lastly- I have bought 2 of these punches in the last few weeks,,,and I need a deal on one more.
If you decide to get another amp, we can deal on yours.
i have one in my bike, put one in my RV and we are now looking at adding exterior speakers to the rv- so I am after a third
I'd PM you but you need a few more posts before that option opens up
mike
1.) the squared off wave will sound distorted
2.) the speaker will move to the end of it's travel- then hold for a moment, then move to the other extreme and hold etc. each of these holds can allow the voicecoil to overheat- the speaker needs to move to cool the voicecoil.
at moderate sound levels, you will be just fine.
those speakers are rated for 100w continuous power- which is what that amp will do.
lower frequencies require alot more power than mid or high to reproduce.
so start easy and don;t try to get a lot of bass out of the system.
you can get the manual on the RF website
you know what the gain does louder/quieter- as about around 5 should be close ( although I don;t know what interface you have- the Punch can be run off your speaker outputs- no box)
LP means low pass- the only sound which will pass are below the frequency selected -most often used for dedicated subs
AP means all pass- the **** does nothing
HP means high pass, only frequencies above the setting on the **** will pass, most often used for dedicated mid range/tweeter type things with another amp on subwoofers
( this is what the other Forum Member suggested using and setting it at 80Hertz his suggestion was based on the idea of saving you from trying to get too much bass out and hurting your nice speakers, I would probably set this to 50Hz...but I work with sound for a living and would be aware f any problems if I had to change this)
if you have one of the punch remote *****, disconnect or turn to "0"
what I would do is start with gain all the way down and do the HP trick
turn on your head unit and play music you know...a cd
turn the radio, vol to 5, bass 5, treble 5
and sneak up the volume- hopefully you have sound from both speakers and they are in phase (+ to +, - to - etc.)
if all seems good, turn up the gain on the amp until you are deef or you hear any distortion, if so back off a bit.
on the head unit turn off the AVC !
You want to be careful with the volume on the head unit, if your setting there is too high- the signal coming out and going to the amp could be distorted, and the amp will reproduce that distortion along with your music
from here, you should be pretty good- if not post back and we can work on that.
The variable is your interface box-- I dont know what it does, does it have a name or controls on it?
and lastly- I have bought 2 of these punches in the last few weeks,,,and I need a deal on one more.
If you decide to get another amp, we can deal on yours.
i have one in my bike, put one in my RV and we are now looking at adding exterior speakers to the rv- so I am after a third
I'd PM you but you need a few more posts before that option opens up
mike
#9
02-23-2017, 07:14 AM
That JL amp he gave you a link to will do this
#10
02-23-2017, 07:17 AM
Road Master
Don't mean to hijack, but I have one of these that I would sell. I just swapped it out for a BT2180 that I got during their last sale. Unfortunately, I did not get the bang for my buck because there was not much of a difference in overall sound. The PBR300X2 is a great little amp. If interested, send me a PM.