First of all, big thanks to Citoriplus (a.k.a. Frank) for his advice & tips through the process of switching to these particular handlebars.

The pics are clickable links. Also, I took them last night and haven't had a chance to clean her up yet, but she's ridden a lot anyway and rarely "clean."

Basically, the reason for the mods was I was having a "reach" issue with the stock drag-style bars on my '06 Night Train. I'm 5'9" and 180 lbs, so I was always leaning forward. After a lot of forum searching, I saw where Frank replaced his hangers with the HD Bombay handlebars and decided to go that route. Since the Bombays require adding a tach, I went ahead and purchased a used HD spun aluminum speedo/tach set and sent the speedo to Powl's Speedometer in Lancaster, PA to have them set the actual mileage.

Beginning of teardown on day one:



Although not shown in the pic above, in order to run the wiring for the tach the fuel tank had to come off, which means removing the "console" on top of the fuel tank first. Anyone who's done this knows draining the tank is a good idea, although time consuming. I won't go into too much detail about "how" I did the work unless somebody asks for it. I will say that the tach harness was ridiculously easy to install. Just three wires -- pink is signal and goes to pin 3 of the 64-pin connector on the ECM; red is pos and goes into a blank spot on the fuse box along with a 2A fuse; and black just gets tied into the frame ground at the rear of the fuel tank. The red and pink wires are pre-terminated for easy installation. The other end which connects to the tach is not terminated and just needs 22AWG ring terminals, which were not provided by HD, but I had already anyway.

All of the wiring, including the wiring for the controls which go inside the Bombay handlebars as opposed to outside on the stock bars, were run through nylon braid sleeves to dress them up a little. Running the wiring for the handlebar controls means taking apart the Deutsch connectors. Pulling the pins out of the connector(s) is easy. I took pictures to ensure I put the wires/pins back in the correct sockets:



Here's the old and new speedos. At this point, I was checking the mileage on the aluminum speedo to see how much it had. The seller had no idea:



Here's the speedo after being sent to Powl's. They got it within 2 miles of actual:



Here's are two shots of the controls wiring coming out of the handlebars with the nylon braiding. Fishing the wiring through the bars with the braiding on them actually makes it easier:





This pic shows the rake of the handlebars. They do come back towards the rider quite a bit compared to the stock bars. Probably a 4" gain, I'd say. Frank made note that he was able to use his stock clutch and throttle cables, but not his brake line. He has an '07 Softail Custom. As you can see, the clutch cable clears the tank just fine, even to the hard limit:





On the right side, everything clears as well, after one slight mod. Note, the installation instructions from HD say to replace the stock brake line. When I called the dealer, the P/N provided in the instructions is for a S/S brake line with the exact same measurements as the stock line. Basically HD wants you to pay $$ so you can have one oddball S/S line which matches nothing on a bike that is mostly black. So I stuck with stock. Maybe later I'll switch to black S/S braided.

Anyway, the throttle cables barely clear my fuel cap from the start, but no mod necessary. However, the brake line hit the handlebars when I first tried to install the grip/reservoir onto the bars. There is a detent on the bars (which are flared for running the wiring inside them) for the brake reservoir, but the banjo fitting was hitting. So I barely loosened the banjo fitting and rotated the line towards the forks, about 30 degrees. Be sure not to press the lever when the fitting is loosened or you'll bleed your lines and end up with a mess. It's hard to tell in the pic, but there's approx. 1/2" of clearance between the brake line and fuel tank, at hard limit:



On the triple tree, there is a clamp which holds the brake line. I rotated it 180 degrees, bringing the fuel line closer to the outside of the tree:



The new view from the saddle:





Since the bike was going to be out of commission for a week or so, I figured I'd finally paint my exhaust pipe guards with black wrinkle paint to match the motor too. I used VHT black wrinkle paint. Directions say to paint the piece with horizontal pattern, wait 5 mins, paint vertical pattern, wait 5 mins, then paint diagonal pattern, wait 5 mins, then bake. I baked each piece for 30 mins at 300 degrees. Turned out very well and matches the motor perfectly, although my flash makes part of it appear shiny. That's just my camera. The pipes are Supertrapp Road Legends X-Pipes. My HDForums photo album shows how they looked "before" I painted them for anyone interested:





Here are some pics of the Ultra Cool ST I installed a few weeks ago. They did a custom thermostat for me which opens at 190 degrees. I think standard is 210. Since I ride in DC, I wanted it to begin cooling a bit earlier. It's worked perfectly. No more engine shutdowns from being stuck in "rush hour" traffic:



Make no mistake, you need patience to install this thing. It's a tight fit to say the least:



I also installed a K&N RK-3910-1 custom air filter and a Vance & Hines FuelPak after having the SE Race Tune removed. It was backfiring a lot although it had been programmed for the Supertrapp pipes and SE air filter. With the FuelPak, no more issues.

~ Nate