Interesting, didn't realize it was 2-1 until you mentioned it.

It seems like I might not have had to remove the stock shrink to get the wires through the bars. I ended up taping all wires together (including the turn signals in their stock shrink) and pulling them through the bars in 1 shot. I'm wondering if I should pull them and put on new shrink and try it. Should I be concerned the wires aren't protected inside the bars, or should I just try and get shrink around them at the two openings to protect against abrasion?

 

I prefer to always use shrink at any splices. Wires need adequate insulation and using shrink helps maintain the strength on connections. Overtime the adhesive on the tape will deteriorate and it becomes loose. Not sure why but it's hard to find good black tape now that will hold well for extended periods.

 

Not clear but did you remove the shrink and then used tape at the splices?

 

I actually didn't do any splices, I just disassembled the molex and AMP connectors and ran the wires through the bars, then I'll be reassembling the connectors. I cut the stock shrink on the control switches in anticipation of it not being able to be run through the bars in the bunch, but they can, so now I think I'm going to pull out what I did, and put new shrink on the control switches, then run them and the turn signal wires back through, so everything will be shrinked through the bars.

 

Okay I get it now. I don't think you would have had to cut those stock shrinks because they are staggered and they more than likely would not have interfered. At this stage it's your call to pull them back out or not. It really depends on how comfortable you feel about the work you did insulating those areas. It may never cause you problems or you will start blowing fuses or get a short down the road. It's a judgement call or just flip a coin.

Kind of reminds me of when I was rebuilding an old Honda Gold Wing engine and I screwed something up and had to split the case again after I was almost finished. It can be aggravating but things like that happen.

 

I ended up cutting it because I thought I was going to have to feed each wire through the bars one by one, but that turned out to not be the case. I didn't do any insulating, just de-pinned. I was concerned because I didn't know if the inside bends of the two 90 degrees of the bars would rub enough and eventually break through the wire insulation. I'm thinking I'm going to add it for sanity's sake.

 

Cut the stock shrink back so about 5" of it from the controls was still on and put on new shrink. Wow... what a pain in the @$$ trying to run that through the bars with the TS shrinked wires. I fought it. Pins look good. Shrink is midly beat up. One pin, as I was pulling it through the bottom hole stuck out and went into the shrink of the other sides wires that was already ran. Couldn't tell if it nicked a wire or not. Don't think there would be enough metal nearby to affect it.

So, sitting now with all the wires ran through the bars and ready for re-pinning.

 

The quality of the welds on the inside of the bars has a big impact on if you have to wrap them or not. The guy that built my bars said dont use it. He guarantees the inside of the bars to be perfectly smooth. Said hes seen more issues when the wires are wrapped. Mine have considerably more than a 90 degree bend

 

I think the friction of the shrink is what made it tough going through. Without shrink the wires went through just fine, but yeah, I don't know what those corners look like on the inside.

 

It is odd though, like two wires per bunch are somehow shorter than the rest so it made rebuilding the plug tough. I'm questioning whether or not the plugs will reach now.

Any recommendations on installing non-knurled bars? Should I worry about it or just torque it to spec and go?