new to me sportster maintenance
#1
#3
#4
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 12,344
Received 2,189 Likes
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everything here applies to your bike:
from: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...-it-right.html
anything beyond that is foreplay... just ride!
What/How:2012 owners manual... free
https://www.harley-davidson.com/en_U...er/file-7.comp
When:
2012
How much:
2012
type of oil:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...l#post14946336
how tos:
Delboy's Garage, Harley Sportster, Primary Oil Change. - YouTube
How to Change Oil & Filter in a Harley-Davidson Sportster by J&P Cycles - YouTube
great how tos:
Harley Davidson Sportster Maintenance Video Part 1 - YouTube
Harley Sportster Maintenance Video Part 2 - YouTube
https://www.harley-davidson.com/en_U...er/file-7.comp
When:
2012
How much:
2012
type of oil:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...l#post14946336
how tos:
Delboy's Garage, Harley Sportster, Primary Oil Change. - YouTube
How to Change Oil & Filter in a Harley-Davidson Sportster by J&P Cycles - YouTube
great how tos:
Harley Davidson Sportster Maintenance Video Part 1 - YouTube
Harley Sportster Maintenance Video Part 2 - YouTube
anything beyond that is foreplay... just ride!
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Scumbag_72 (04-22-2016)
#5
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frozelandia, Minnysota
Posts: 27,067
Received 4,617 Likes
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2,727 Posts
If those are the original tires (and they have the oem Harley tire tread in the photo), they're dangerously hard at 9 years old, can slide unexpectedly on corners and might have awful rain traction. Check the tire dates to be sure (4 digit number in an oval on one side of the tire, first 2 digits, week of the year, 2nd 2, year).
If original tires, the axles probably haven't been pulled and near the coast, it may have had enough salt exposure to start rusting the axles and inside the spacers - they don't get any corrosion protection from the factory. If you can jack the bike, could take the weight off and see if you can pull an axle out a little ways by hand - if it needs a hammer, it'd could damage the bearings, so I'd let it go at that point till the next tire change. Make sure the axles get coated with grease or anti seize when they go back in, so they'll slip out with the next tire change with no bearing damage. Not a bad idea to also do the same to the swingarm pivot some time when the back wheel is off - those have spherical bearings and can handle light hammer persuasion.
If you don't have have torque wrenches, I really recommend them, even for small stuff like case screws, they're easy to strip using "hand" torque. I haven't bought a used Harley yet that didn't have some loose screws or bolts, good idea to check what you can reach. Not pulley bolts or brake disk bolts though, just a visual check; if you disturb the loctite on those, they'd need to be removed, cleaned, and put back with fresh loctite at minimum; a lot of folks don't even re-use them since the manual calls for new ones.
If original tires, the axles probably haven't been pulled and near the coast, it may have had enough salt exposure to start rusting the axles and inside the spacers - they don't get any corrosion protection from the factory. If you can jack the bike, could take the weight off and see if you can pull an axle out a little ways by hand - if it needs a hammer, it'd could damage the bearings, so I'd let it go at that point till the next tire change. Make sure the axles get coated with grease or anti seize when they go back in, so they'll slip out with the next tire change with no bearing damage. Not a bad idea to also do the same to the swingarm pivot some time when the back wheel is off - those have spherical bearings and can handle light hammer persuasion.
If you don't have have torque wrenches, I really recommend them, even for small stuff like case screws, they're easy to strip using "hand" torque. I haven't bought a used Harley yet that didn't have some loose screws or bolts, good idea to check what you can reach. Not pulley bolts or brake disk bolts though, just a visual check; if you disturb the loctite on those, they'd need to be removed, cleaned, and put back with fresh loctite at minimum; a lot of folks don't even re-use them since the manual calls for new ones.
#6
I bought a 2007 XL1200 last year, it had 5K on it, barely broken in, right?
The primary chain was too loose. Once I tightened it a little I noticed it shifted much better. The clutch also needed to be adjusted. The throttle & clutch cables needed to be lubed. In going over the bike, there were various little things here and there that needed replacing, like a muffler clamp. You get the idea. Go over the bike from head to toe.
I also changed the primary fluid (very easy) and brake fluid in both cylinders.
Oh, and, hugely important: check the date codes on your tires. My tires were the originals, 8 years old! Quite unsafe and some dry rot.
The primary chain was too loose. Once I tightened it a little I noticed it shifted much better. The clutch also needed to be adjusted. The throttle & clutch cables needed to be lubed. In going over the bike, there were various little things here and there that needed replacing, like a muffler clamp. You get the idea. Go over the bike from head to toe.
I also changed the primary fluid (very easy) and brake fluid in both cylinders.
Oh, and, hugely important: check the date codes on your tires. My tires were the originals, 8 years old! Quite unsafe and some dry rot.
#7
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#8
#9
Thanks for all the advice everyone. They are the original tires, from the 17th week of 2006. Bummer about the tires, they seem like they're in really good condition and ride nice. New tires will go on the top of my list though. I'm too new a rider to take a chance if they're unsafe. Is the dealer the best option for tires?
#10