Dealing with a dead battery
#11
#12
If you store the bike in a dry hot climate like Tucson, AZ the battery will not last long if a floode lead acid type batter because the H2O in the acid evaporates out through the vent. Sealed batteries can go bad since there is no way to add water to the cells.
If the battery measures less than 12.6 volts, one day after removing the charger, the battery is bad and probably has two or more partially or fully shorted cells.
If replacing the battery get a AGM type battery for longer battery life since the acid is absorbed into the glass mat with much less evaporation loss and also withstands shock and vibration better than the lead acid type.
If the battery measures less than 12.6 volts, one day after removing the charger, the battery is bad and probably has two or more partially or fully shorted cells.
If replacing the battery get a AGM type battery for longer battery life since the acid is absorbed into the glass mat with much less evaporation loss and also withstands shock and vibration better than the lead acid type.
#13
Hello, good morning all
Just bought a new bike, 2005 RK Police, do you happen to know if the battery tender for this bike should be 6V or 12V?
If I may abuse of your knowledge, do you know if such battery tender will be serve as well a 2001 sportster battery?
Thank you so much, safe rides for y'all,
Just bought a new bike, 2005 RK Police, do you happen to know if the battery tender for this bike should be 6V or 12V?
If I may abuse of your knowledge, do you know if such battery tender will be serve as well a 2001 sportster battery?
Thank you so much, safe rides for y'all,
#14
My battery keeps dying on me when I'm out. It turns the engine a bit but not enough to start my Sportster. I keep trying to turn on the bike and then the battery quickly dies. Problem is the bike and the battery aren't that old. I bought the bike new back in 2015 and I've had the battery plugged into a battery tender (for the most part) when I'm not riding. Is it time to get a new battery or could something else be wrong? I find it weird that this battery's life has come to an end so quickly.
#16
The easiest way to check the state of your charging system would be to use a multimeter across the battery leads (or from + to ground). Check the Volts DC with the engine off. That should be above 12.5 V. Turn the engine on. That should now be north of 13 V at an idle, but especially so if you run up the engine..
Here are the relevant posts from another thread. I currently am faced with a bad regulator, again.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...l#post13124311
Here are the relevant posts from another thread. I currently am faced with a bad regulator, again.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...l#post13124311
100% 12.7 - 13.2v
75% 12.4v
50% 12.2v
25% 12.0v
Discharged 0 - 11.9v
Hold your voltmeter to the terminals on the battery.
Now push the starter button and watch what the voltage drops to.
It doesn't matter if the bike starts or not, what you're looking for is a voltage reading.
A healthy 12 volt motorcycle battery should maintain a range from 9.5 - 10.5 volts under the load for a good 20 - 30 seconds straight.
If the battery holds and then steadily drops in voltage, there is a problem
if it drops below 9.5 the battery is dead ----
get the scoot running - with the meter hooked up it should read more voltage as you raise the rpm --- this will let you know that it is charging or tryin to charge the battery
or just goto auto parts store have them load test it
75% 12.4v
50% 12.2v
25% 12.0v
Discharged 0 - 11.9v
Hold your voltmeter to the terminals on the battery.
Now push the starter button and watch what the voltage drops to.
It doesn't matter if the bike starts or not, what you're looking for is a voltage reading.
A healthy 12 volt motorcycle battery should maintain a range from 9.5 - 10.5 volts under the load for a good 20 - 30 seconds straight.
If the battery holds and then steadily drops in voltage, there is a problem
if it drops below 9.5 the battery is dead ----
get the scoot running - with the meter hooked up it should read more voltage as you raise the rpm --- this will let you know that it is charging or tryin to charge the battery
or just goto auto parts store have them load test it
Read up on what your battery voltage should be at idle, when the bike is turned off, and open circuit (disconnected) The values you listed are a bit low. I would seriously consider a voltage regulator problem. Unfortunately, the values of your charging/static voltage tests are the only way to test a voltage regulator. If your voltage regulator fails and you ignore it too long, stator replacement is soon to follow. You can do a quick check of your stator by disconnecting it with the bike turned off and check continuity through the windings. Some resistance, but not much should be your answer, I'm thinking less than 50 ohms. Check continuity from one lead of your stator to the ground on the bike. A reading in the mega ohms (million) range would be good, infinity even better
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