Sportster Models 883, 883 Custom, 1200 Custom, 883L, 1200L, 1200S, 1200 Roadster, XR1200, and the Nightster.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Rear brake problem

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 03-08-2009, 08:09 PM
gilmour68's Avatar
gilmour68
gilmour68 is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NE Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,167
Received 20 Likes on 15 Posts
Default Rear brake problem

I removed my rear wheel last week and cleaned it up. Tonight I was putting it back on and planned to replace the brake pads at the same time. Since the wheel was out of the way, I decided to replace the pads before I put the wheel on. Since I had replaced rear pads on my other bike, it was no big deal.

So I compress the cylinder and put on the new pads. When I try to put the rear wheel in position, the inner pad is in the way of the rotor. I tried to push the caliper toward the wheel (on the pins) to make more room, but it wouldn't go. I removed the new inner pad and put the older, worn pad on. I was then able to get the wheel back into position.

The problem is I don't think I can press the caliper inward far enough to fit the new pad. The original inner pad was worn more than the outer. Should the pad ride right along and "drag" on the rotor?? How can I make enough room to put on the new pad?
 
Attached Thumbnails Rear brake problem-left-side-before.jpg   Rear brake problem-cleaned-wheel-left-side.jpg   Rear brake problem-right-side-before.jpg   Rear brake problem-cleaned-wheel-right-side.jpg   Rear brake problem-cleaned-rear-wheel.jpg  

  #2  
Old 03-08-2009, 08:19 PM
stng_96's Avatar
stng_96
stng_96 is offline
Road Master
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Marion Ill
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

All you should have to do is open the resevoir for the fluid, and compress the piston all the way back into the caliper. and yes, it will look like the pad is "dragging the disk" whenever you get it back in.

Know this, if you can't fix it will a hammer or a big pair of channel locks, its an electrical problem.
 
  #3  
Old 03-08-2009, 08:26 PM
JosephGarcia's Avatar
JosephGarcia
JosephGarcia is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: fegfsg
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

replace your brake fluid at the same time as the pad change, I replace my fluid once a month becuase its so easy and it improves the break feel evreytime. there is a one man brake bleeder kit, its a small bottle with a hose and a one way valve, its incredibly helpful

the caliper is not going in all the way becuase of the pressure in the resevoir, just replace the fluid while you have it open!
 
  #4  
Old 03-08-2009, 11:51 PM
Gpsjr10's Avatar
Gpsjr10
Gpsjr10 is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Elyria, OH
Posts: 2,541
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

If I remember correctly, there are pistons on both sides of the caliper and both sides need to be compressed unlike on a car that has piston on one side.... feel free to correct me if I'm wrong... and +1 on the resevoir cover removal. Just watch that you don't make a mess with the fluid when you pres the pistons back.
 
  #5  
Old 03-09-2009, 05:52 AM
gilmour68's Avatar
gilmour68
gilmour68 is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NE Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,167
Received 20 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

I was maybe a little unclear about where I'm at with the install. I took the reservior cover off and pressed the cylinder in with a C-clamp. A little bit of fluid came out and I was able to press the piston all the way back in. I have plenty of space between the pads to fit the rotor.

BTW there is only a brake cylinder on an XLC and it presses on the outer pad. The inner pad is fixed in position.

The caliper is mounted to a bracket that fits over the swingarm. The caliper rides on some pins and should have some travel in and out - toward and away from the wheel. The rotor needs to fit between the bracket (on the left) and the rear pad (on the right). In my case the new, thicker rear brake pad was in the way.

I should have been able to 'slide' the caliper toward the wheel to make enough room for the rotor to fit into place. Since I couldn't, I put the older, worn pad on. I was then able to get the wheel in position and reinstall the axle.

I now need to remove the old worn pad from the inside of the caliper and replace it with the considerably thicker new pad. I need the caliper to travel along the pins (toward the wheel) to make it happen. It doesn't seem like it can move far enough - there doesn't seem to be much travel available. Even if it did move far enough, it seems like the inner pad would be pressed pretty tightly against the rotor. Is this normal and how much 'drag' is normal?

Is there some way to lubricate the pins?? Anyone know how much travel in normal??

I'm gonna try messing with it after work. I've replaced rear brakes once before (on another XLC) and it wasn't a big deal. Just don't know why the caliper won't move a bit more.
 

Last edited by gilmour68; 03-09-2009 at 06:02 AM.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2013superglideseattle
Milwaukee Eight (M8)
5
06-01-2019 02:26 PM
CowboyIp
Dyna Glide Models
20
03-12-2014 08:02 PM
albngore
Touring Models
8
06-23-2011 07:10 PM
kelton3
Sportster Models
4
06-05-2009 06:56 PM
bucs012
Touring Models
3
05-13-2008 01:38 PM



Quick Reply: Rear brake problem



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:15 PM.