sportster extra plate clutch kit writeup
#42
Thanks for the pics. I finally installed my E1 kit this afternoon. After studying this thread it was a breeze.
My old clutch did appear fine - 31,000 km on it. I consider this good preventative maintenance. And I don't know that the PO changed the spring to a 1200 when he did the conversion. Now I don't have to be concerned.
My old clutch did appear fine - 31,000 km on it. I consider this good preventative maintenance. And I don't know that the PO changed the spring to a 1200 when he did the conversion. Now I don't have to be concerned.
#43
#44
#45
Success!!
The clutch basket cleaned up nicely. Last night I installed the original steel plates and new HD spring plate I purchased on EBay. The friction plates I used are Alto Red Eagle Organic Plates w/much more surface area than the stock HD friction plates (see attached pic).
Rode for about 15 minutes until my fingers eventually went numb from the cold … shifts perfectly.
The clutch basket cleaned up nicely. Last night I installed the original steel plates and new HD spring plate I purchased on EBay. The friction plates I used are Alto Red Eagle Organic Plates w/much more surface area than the stock HD friction plates (see attached pic).
Rode for about 15 minutes until my fingers eventually went numb from the cold … shifts perfectly.
i am gonna replace the clutch plates of my bike which is 2009 Road King Classic.
So i just wanna know that are you recommend to use Alto Products Red Eagle Organic Clutch Plate Kits?
Thanks.
#46
On the big twins you will absolutely want to change your diaphragm spring no matter which brand you choose for clutch. Especially if you have any engine mods beyond exhaust and air cleaner it is a must as it is a weak point. There is no riveted plate in the newer big twins and you wont need a spring compressor. You may also look into a hayden m6 primary chain tensioner as well.
#47
#48
I sold that Sportster shortly after making the repair. Having not heard back from the buyer, I suspect the Alto Red Eagle Organic Plates have held up just fine.
#49
My "48" just turned 13k miles when I installed my E1 clutch. That was about a month ago and I've ridden 600 miles since. I had a few surprises along the way like when I pulled the primary cover off. For the last 5k miles I had been using Redline, 80wt. Synthetic, Motorcycle Gear Oil w/Shockproof. This greenish color oil is the oil recommended by RedLine on their website for use in Sportster primary/transmission cases. What I initially noticed was a build-up of green mud on the outer diameters of the clutch basket, ring gear and starter gear. OMG! Removing it was like scraping off wet sheetrock. The clutch plates themselves showed a minor glazing. I decided to disassemble the primary drive further by removing the stator, primary chain and clutch hub. The entire area inside the stator was gooped up with this green mud as was the inner clutch basket and the clutch basket bearing. After seeing this mess I am totally done with that oil! I replaced the hub bearing and the primary chain then cleaned and reassembled everything using new snap rings and clips, soaking the clutch plates and refilling the case with non-synthetic, 10-40wt Valvoline Motorcycle Oil for use with wet clutches. I ran the bike 100 miles then dumped the oil, refilling with a fresh qt of Valvoline. Yes, the oil I dumped the second time, with only 100 miles on it, was still green in color even though the Valvoline is a pure liquid gold.
Anyway...the rest of the install was straight forward and the E1 clutch has been performing flawlessly. Clutch engagement is noticeably smoother than the stock clutch and the lever pull feels about the same. All in all...a great upgrade...highly recommended!
Anyway...the rest of the install was straight forward and the E1 clutch has been performing flawlessly. Clutch engagement is noticeably smoother than the stock clutch and the lever pull feels about the same. All in all...a great upgrade...highly recommended!
#50