I'm still using original clutch. At over 91,000 miles, it acts a little strange sometimes.

 

Thanks for the pics. I finally installed my E1 kit this afternoon. After studying this thread it was a breeze.
My old clutch did appear fine - 31,000 km on it. I consider this good preventative maintenance. And I don't know that the PO changed the spring to a 1200 when he did the conversion. Now I don't have to be concerned.

 

Questions:
Being a new clutch, about how many miles should you check the adjustments?
And about how many miles should you change the fluid?

 

Hi
i am gonna replace the clutch plates of my bike which is 2009 Road King Classic.
So i just wanna know that are you recommend to use Alto Products Red Eagle Organic Clutch Plate Kits?
Thanks.

 

Hi
i am gonna replace the clutch plates of my bike which is 2009 Road King Classic.
So i just wanna know that are you recommend to use Alto Products Red Eagle Organic Clutch Plate Kits?
Thanks.

 

Personally I did a 1k interval on it all around. As long as your fluid level is at the bottom of diaphragm spring and your clutch is adjusted right and all shifts and feels well wait till 1k then wait till 5k as normal intervals. I did have to change over to trick shift type f as some slippage was starting after 2k or so. Was fine after that.
On the big twins you will absolutely want to change your diaphragm spring no matter which brand you choose for clutch. Especially if you have any engine mods beyond exhaust and air cleaner it is a must as it is a weak point. There is no riveted plate in the newer big twins and you wont need a spring compressor. You may also look into a hayden m6 primary chain tensioner as well.

 

Thanks for the write up! I just did this a few days ago. Went with a Barnett kit. My riveted plate had detonated itself at 23k miles but the basket was salvageable. Feels so much better now! Definitely recommend this to anyone that's considering it!

 

Sorry for such a late response, I’ve not checked this section in months.

I sold that Sportster shortly after making the repair. Having not heard back from the buyer, I suspect the Alto Red Eagle Organic Plates have held up just fine.

 

My "48" just turned 13k miles when I installed my E1 clutch. That was about a month ago and I've ridden 600 miles since. I had a few surprises along the way like when I pulled the primary cover off. For the last 5k miles I had been using Redline, 80wt. Synthetic, Motorcycle Gear Oil w/Shockproof. This greenish color oil is the oil recommended by RedLine on their website for use in Sportster primary/transmission cases. What I initially noticed was a build-up of green mud on the outer diameters of the clutch basket, ring gear and starter gear. OMG! Removing it was like scraping off wet sheetrock. The clutch plates themselves showed a minor glazing. I decided to disassemble the primary drive further by removing the stator, primary chain and clutch hub. The entire area inside the stator was gooped up with this green mud as was the inner clutch basket and the clutch basket bearing. After seeing this mess I am totally done with that oil! I replaced the hub bearing and the primary chain then cleaned and reassembled everything using new snap rings and clips, soaking the clutch plates and refilling the case with non-synthetic, 10-40wt Valvoline Motorcycle Oil for use with wet clutches. I ran the bike 100 miles then dumped the oil, refilling with a fresh qt of Valvoline. Yes, the oil I dumped the second time, with only 100 miles on it, was still green in color even though the Valvoline is a pure liquid gold.
Anyway...the rest of the install was straight forward and the E1 clutch has been performing flawlessly. Clutch engagement is noticeably smoother than the stock clutch and the lever pull feels about the same. All in all...a great upgrade...highly recommended!

 

Your picture shows one thing succinctly, anyone with a bit of know-how and fortitude can work on Harlies ! ! !

Cheers,

.