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doing my first cam swap this winter-advice?

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Old 10-21-2014, 11:37 PM
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Default doing my first cam swap this winter-advice?

I recently purchased a 2008 Road Glide with a 96 cubic inch motor. I believe it's going to need a new compensator.I also plan on putting in the Andrews 48 cam.
I came to the realization that the reality of the situation is that I cannot afford to pay even an Indy to do this and it doesn't look that tough.
I am thinking of going with Johnson lifters. I thought I read somewhere on these forums that you can get a bearing puller from autozone to rent.
I am also thinking that I am going to use a Dynojet auto tune after installing the cams.
any feedback that you guys could give would be deeply appreciated.
 
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:37 PM
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I forgot to mention that the bike also has 35,000 on it so I plan on replacing the cam tensioner shoes.
 
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:01 AM
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Hi
08 has the hydraulic tensioners, should be ok but does not hurt to look at them. Get a service manual first!
Russ
 
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:41 AM
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Have the same project planned for this winter with almost the same mileage on my 07 RK. Curious why you decided on the Andrews 48 cam and what exhaust are you planning on using. I'm thinking a 2 into 1 Supertrap. Tired of changing Y pipes and don't want anything too loud?
Rev
 

Last edited by RevBlk; 10-22-2014 at 12:44 AM. Reason: sp
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:46 AM
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read threads from the Guys who made mistakes, had problems etc.

look in the mirror- is that guy qualified to do this?

some riders go at a great running machine with a wrench they have never even pointed at the minivan and get in over their head.

If that is you, rethink this and save up.
a simple error can destroy your motor ( like the current mal-adjusted pushrods thread)

if that is not you, get the manual and read over the procedure a few times.
lots of forum members have done this to good result

check if your local community college offers any auto trades courses- you can get expert help for next to nothing
Mike
 

Last edited by mkguitar; 10-22-2014 at 02:42 AM.
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:50 AM
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Be careful. I attempted this a few years ago and the pushrods gave me the most trouble. If not adjusted correct, you will bend or even break a valve off in the head. There's a fine line between performance/ power trying to get the most duration and lift out of the valve and going to far with the pushrods. One rotation and oops, bent valve.
 
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Old 10-22-2014, 02:44 AM
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My tensioners were barely scratched at 28k, when you do the comp think about a new chain adjuster and put the se clutch spring in,its cheap,worth it and I felt very little more effort in lever pull.
you will need to barrow or buy and resell? the cam bearing tool.seemed to be the biggist must have tool for the whole project.
as soon as you can save up for a good dyno tune,it will kill you not knowing how much better it will run and what you left on the table tq/hp...
Take your time and you will avoid the problems,I got tired of all the pushrod sillyness and just put them in there loose,jiggled them around till i felt both rods had max space and adjusted them up...however you do them just be patient. my build is running stronger/smoother then ever at around 26k now.
read some of the threads on lifters and compression releases
 
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Old 10-22-2014, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RevBlk
Have the same project planned for this winter with almost the same mileage on my 07 RK. Curious why you decided on the Andrews 48 cam and what exhaust are you planning on using. I'm thinking a 2 into 1 Supertrap. Tired of changing Y pipes and don't want anything too loud?
Rev
I have heard nothing but GREAT things about this cam and really liked the feel of the Andrews 37 in my other rides.sounds like the 48 is a better cam for the 96 than the 37.
I am actually thinking of going with the Vance and hines pro pipe. Thought about the D&D fat cat but the pro pipe is considerably less money and I like the way it sounds.
 
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Old 10-22-2014, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Scaffido
Be careful. I attempted this a few years ago and the pushrods gave me the most trouble. If not adjusted correct, you will bend or even break a valve off in the head. There's a fine line between performance/ power trying to get the most duration and lift out of the valve and going to far with the pushrods. One rotation and oops, bent valve.
Thought about just pulling the gas tank and rocker box covers. Wouldn't that solve this problem? Cheaper too.
I have worked on cars, do my own maintenance (oil changes, etc.) And think that if I take my time I should be able to accomplish the task.
 
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Old 10-22-2014, 03:34 AM
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I was also thinking between the manual, videos and this forum I should be able to figure it out. I've already watched videos and it doesn't really seem that tough.
 


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