Wanted additional conspicuity from the rear to fend off inattentive drivers. Added Whelen warning lights on a bracket I fabricated using a harness I made. I wanted the ability to completely remove both the flasher and/or the lights with no impact to the OEM wiring which is why I spent the time to make it plug-and-play.


Pics:
2015 Harley FLHR with Whelen LIN3


Video:


Major Parts:

• Whelen LIN3 Super-LED Red (#RSR02ZCR)]
• HD Airwing Harness (#692-00772)
• HD Pin Housing 3-Way (#73103-96BK)
• HD Pin Terminals (#73190-96)
• Universal Brake Light Flasher/Strober - 1000+ modes
• High-Temp VW-1 Chemical and Abrasion Resistant Tubing (6.5mm, 8mm, 14mm)
• Water-Tight Silicone 4mm Bullet terminals (YTB-39)
• GXL-Rated Automotive Wiring 18ga
• Forney 18-22 (Red) Adhesive Heat-Shrink Butt connectors
• Sumitube Motorsports and ANCOR Marine grade adhesive heat-shrink (various sizes)
• Radio Shack 150-Ohm resistor (#271-1109)
• Radio Shack 3A Rectifier Diodes (#276-1143)
• 36"x2" flat aluminum barstock (Home Depot/Lowes)
• 1/4x20x3/4" stainless machine screws, washers, and nylock nuts
• #6x32x3/4" stainless machine screws, washers, and nylock nuts
• Various Tools: Insulated Crimper, Heat Gun, Uninsulated Barrel Crimper, Soldering Iron, Solder, etc.
• Whelen makes a bracket for FLHP bikes (if you can find it) M2KTHD1

Circuit Design:

The OEM design is a separate wires for the brake light switch (Blue/Red), running/tail light (Blue) and Ground (Black). Since the LEDs have only power (Red) and ground (Black), there is a need to combine the OEM brake and running wires into a single feed for the LEDs power wire. To do this and maintain the ability to intensify the LEDs while braking requires the use of diodes and resistors.

Diodes are one-way valves for current and in this design prevent the backflow of current into the running/tail wire when the brake light switch is activated (e.g. you are using the brakes). LEDs will use all the power you feed them (until you reach their max and they burn up) so to maintain lower intensity output when off the brakes (e.g. running lights) you need to reduce the current by using a resistor.

Note: Whelen doesn't publish the electrical specs for the internals on their LIN3 lights. In my circuit diagram, for the LEDs I used 270 Ohm resitors and LED characteristics that made the circuit work. The two other wires on the LEDs are for syncing (gray) of the built in patterns (police mode) and for selecting (white/purple) the strobe pattern. The LEDs are in a steady-on mode flash pattern (i.e. I'm not using any of the built-in Whelen police strobes because they are illegal to use).

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Great looking mod. I have one of these on my 03. Works very well.

http://www.brightasslights.com/site/...&category_id=1

 

Awesome I love it !! How much $$$ did you lat out for this ??

 

The lights are around $50/ea, the flasher is $25, the aluminum was $10, various sizes of tubing were $20, the waterproof bullets were $10 and the radio shack stuff was $5. I had the wire and other electrical supplies.

So about $175. There are cheaper lightheads but none brighter or better quality than Whelen. These are made in the USA and epoxy sealed so you could run them underwater if you wanted to.

 

I know it an ancient thread but thanks Dabigman wherever you are. Did my LED light conversion last weekend......


https://youtu.be/EWn9wMKcHiYI