I put Jackpot slip ons on my 09 street glide. I reused the same clamps that was on the bike. I can put my hand around where the slip on is an can fill air coming out. Can I use a regular car exhaust clamp or need to go to dealer an get a clamp made for motorcycle? An what about putting some kind of sealer around where it slips on the header pipe?

 

Make sure that you got the pipe in as deep as it will go.I had to wiggle mine back and forth when i pushed it in to get it flush
Also the clamps from Harley are great
So check the center spacer on the clamp it has to go a certain way, if not that may be the issue, it could be offset , you will see what i mean when you pull it off

 

Did you get them "slipped" on all the way" I have some "no-name" rinehart slip ons that came with my new-to-me 03 egc. The left one slips on fine, but I had to take the right one down to my shop and use the muffler expanding tool to open it up a tad in order to slip it back on past the slots so I could get it on far enough to get past the slots for a good seal. I can now even up the pipes at the back of the bike and take them on and off without any problem-- and get a good seal with the existing clamps--- just a thought!

 

Those clamps are designed for one time use. Can be re-used but they will never get any tighter than the first time they were tightened.

 

don't use the automotive clamps that look like a u-bolt. they crimp the outer pipe into the inner one and make it nearly impossible to remove. use the Harley type clamps, you can't over-tighten them. and despite warnings to the contrary, I've had my mufflers off dozens of times with the same clamps. even a dealer removed them to re-pack on my long road trip and re-used the clamps.
yes you can put high temp (red) rtv on the joint if you still have a leak after verifying they are on all the way.

 

Harley exhaust clamps should be replaced with every removal. IMHO

 

Even on the same set of slip-ons?
Wowow.

 

the torca clamps are considered "one use" they deform when torqued.

the torque range is listed as 35~40 ft lbs (off the top of my head).

on new clamps I start at about 32 lbs, and if the seal is good, off I go.

subsequent uses, I'll step up the torque a couple of lbs as long as it seals

the torcas are used on stock mufflers, aftermarket may use different pipe sizes

deformed ( "egged") pipes can be reformed with a die- harbor freight



muffler seals ( like the orange rtv stuff) can help

mike

 

I recently removed and replaced the rear slip-on muffler on my Heritage to replace the rear tire. It took a little force to pull the muffler off...

Regarding exhaust leaks, are there any tricks to detect small leaks? Cigarette smoke? Plugging the end of the muffler? I'm worried that I disturbed the connection/gasket up at the cylinder head...

 

sometimes waggling the muffler will deform the pipe connections ( cdn tire should have dies and bucks to reform- or stop by muffler shop with a 12 pack on a friday aft)

really hammering on the mufflers can break header pipes- the pre 2009 rear header Y pipe was an easy victim


cigarette smoke or a stick of incense works to find air disturbed by leaks.

check cold and again when pipes are fully hot and expanded


the header/head connections are much lighter than you'd think.
most models spec a final torque of less the 10 ft pounds ( usually the manual specs inch pounds)


mike