andrews cams (37g's) are on backorder till august. Gonna go with the the s&s 's(510's). Any major difference between the two aside from duration? always use andrews based on reputation and have always been happy. never have had s&s cams. Any feedback would be appreciated

 

The 510's are going to be softer in the lower RPM's than the 37's. What else are you planning on doing to the motor? What are your goals with this swap? There may be more than one way to get there.

JMO

 

Didnt andrews have a hand in the 07 stock cams?The same cams some are finding timing variances in same bike?Many have said Woods cam in 96 works very well.TW6G series.

 

for the next year or so just runnin , reinharts, a/c, tmax. so im lookin for a decent bolt in. Like i said i normally wouldve went the andrews route but due to the back order Im assuming the s&s's are the next best thing. Are screamin eagle cams the better way to go???

 

I’ve had nothing but good luck with Crane Cams[/b].

Some Things To Consider

Not everyone’s bike or riding style is the same. Camshaft selection must be based on what you’re looking for as well as the component parts and accessories being used on the motorcycle. The installation of the right cam can produce both performance and reliability. Here are the key factors to consider:
1. Riding Style
Is the bike for weekend use or your main form of transportation? Is the bike being used for short trips around town “from light to light”, or for touring long distances? What terrain do you ride? Is high performance or racing your primary concern?
2. Weight Of The Bike
What does it weigh? Is it light, or weighted down with accessories? Do you tow a trailer or have a side-car? Do you ride solo or tandem?
3. Operating RPM Range
What gearing does the bike have? How many speeds to the transmission? Does the bike have “International” gearing? What rpm range are you most likely to be operating in?
4. Engine Displacement And Compression Ratio
What cubic inch is your engine and what compression ratio does it have?
5. Engine Modifications And Engine Accessories
To obtain the maximum potential from your bike it is important to have engine components that are compatible. The components, accessories and modifications to consider are:

a. Air Cleaner / Filter / Jetting
b. Exhaust System
c. Ignition System
d. Carb Size, Style, or F.I.
e. Compression Ratio
f. Cyl. Head Modifications
1. Perf. Valve Springs
2. Enlarged Valve Diameters
3. Porting, Polishing, Milling
g. Aftermarket Cyl. Heads
h. Nitrous Oxide
i. Supercharger or Turbo
The Heart Of The Matter

An engine is a giant air pump and the more efficiently the air moves through it the more power the engine makes. The camshaft opens and closes the valves allowing the air to enter and exit. Camshafts differ in design, but the two main factors are the amount of “duration” and “valve lift”. The “duration” is the time the valve is open (measured in degrees of crankshaft rotation).

Duration determines the “rpm potential” of the engine and power band. The longer the duration period the higher the RPM the powerband will operate at. The “lift” is the distance the valve opens (it is measured in thousandths of an inch of travel). The more lift the more air/fuel mixture can enter and exit the engine, thereby producing more torque.
Bigger’s Not Always Better

The camshaft provides an “rpm power band” that is approximately 3,000 rpm wide. This rpm power band can be produced in either the Lower Range (from off idle to 3,500 rpm), in the Mid Range (from 2,000 to 5,000 rpm) or in the High Range (3,500 to 6,500 rpm). Select the camshaft that will perform the best in the particular rpm band that the bike will be operating in.

The amount of valve lift that the engine can accept is often determined by valve to piston clearance, valve to valve clearance, and the amount of travel the valve spring can handle before its coils touch one another and bind up. Big lift camshafts could require modified cylinder heads or pistons and performance valve springs with additional travel.
Power vs Weight

The “horsepower to weight ratio” is very important. You must produce the right amount of power at the correct rpm range. A heavy bike normally needs a cam that will provide good lower rpm power (torque) to get the bike moving. Generally, a cam with less duration would work the best in a heavy bike. A lighter bike requires less low end power, therefore a cam that provides power in the higher rpm range would be better suited.

But of course there are always the exceptions. A rider with a heavy Dresser who rides the open highway might not care how long

 

very informative- thanks !!

 

Some vendor out there has to havethe 37s.

 

I have the Andrews 37 in my 06 Superglide motor. I would not want it in a bagger. I had heads reworked at Short Block Charlies, 95" big bore pistons, and compression optimized to the 37 cams. In a lightweight Dyna it is a great combo, but that is not how I ride my Ultra classic.

 

I put the 510's in my 88" yeah I know it's not the 96" but I have no complaints, quite happy with the cams, if that helps at all.

 

I run S&S cams in mine and love them. I do have a 107 kit so therefore my cams are a bitbigger at 585, and I also have the gear drive kit from S&S as well. The cams make good power from about 2500 upwards and this thing is a torque monster fromthere on up. Great cams, but i'd probably look to go a bit bigger than 510's. Maybe 550's with a more moderate duration and that would at least allow you to run a kit with it down the road. Good luck!