Guys, just curious as to several people here doing many mods to their bikes. Majority just pipes, air intake/filter and tuner. When you start to get into cams and 2-1 pipes, is this the point when a stronger clutch would foot the bill ? My bike is a 2008 Street Glide, SE intake/Zippers Maxflow filter, Head Quarters HQ-500 cams, SE Super Tuner and a Bassani 2-1 Road Rage exhaust. Before the 2-1 pipe, the dyno tune showed 83hp/95tq. Sometimes, on a hard roll on in 3rd it feels like I'm getting some slippage. Should I be looking at a Barnett, AIM, or SE heavy duty ? Just trying to prevent any damage. Thanks for the help and advice.

Joe

 

Before you spend the big bucks upgrading the clutch...add the S/E clutch spring and use B&M Trick Shift in the primary. Solved all my clutch slippage problems. Solid lock up every time now....

 

Running a HQ 107" build in my '09 RG.
Changed clutch spring to the SE...that's it.

 

Thanks for the info. I do miss the heavier pull in the clutch lever on my 98 Fat Boy. I have read here that quite a few people are using the SE heavier spring. I look into it....

 

Wow ! I had a couple of techs tell me the stock clutch would never withstand the torque of some of these builds from HQ, Hillside, GMR and T-Man just to name a few.

 

2010 UG Limited 103 and just added the SE clutch spring, so far I like it

BM

 

Did you remove the primary cover or do it through the primary cover?

 

2010 FLHTK Limited....clutch went out at 5500 miles.....added the SE clutch spring......tech said the weak stock spring failed.....

 

I have an S&S 107 in my 1990 FLHS, with the original stock clutch! I just added a Barnett pressure plate. Happily deals with just over 100HP/TQ. Recent clutches are supposed to be stronger.

 

My 124" is running thru the stock clutch, with the SE spring. Hasnt slipped yet.

I think HD did change the clutch in 09 tho, i think the 09 up is a 9 plate and the earlier twinkie clutch is a 7 plate. Someone on here will know...