Bike and Diesel 10W40 is ok for Primary. Auto 10W40 has friction modifiers that cause slippery slip clutch engagement as well as having lower base metals which provides wear protection. The base metals are lower in auto oil by industry agreement as a way to extend the life of the catalytic converters to the EPA 10 year goal.
When I said the good stuff, safe for clutches, I meant just that. It has no friction modifier, doesn't have on the API seal "energy conserving" which is why I could use it on the Kaw 1600 which shares engine and tranny oil. It will be used in the primary on the HD but it looks like I have enough, 2 gallons, for a lot of changes. Will probably change primary every time I do the engine. As some one said, free to me, not like I am going out to buy more.
Wow, this is my 1st oil thread, the rest have been seat and bars, no that's not barstools
Last edited by Chunker; 08-14-2011 at 05:12 PM.
Reason: adding
Do not need a seal. The SL rating is enough to let you know you have modifiers. If you use dino oil you should be using SG or SH rated oils.
The seal of energy conserving oil is what precludes it from being used in a wet clutch application. It is that simple, dont "muddy" the waters with SL,SG, "modifiers" etc. Any correct WT, quality oil without the energy conserving label is ok for wet clutch applications, PERIOD!!
The seal of energy conserving oil is what precludes it from being used in a wet clutch application. It is that simple, dont "muddy" the waters with SL,SG, "modifiers" etc. Any correct WT, quality oil without the energy conserving label is ok for wet clutch applications, PERIOD!!
I am not muddying the waters. I am only telling you what really is. Read on Rotella's site. They changed to SL, and dropped the JASO rating. That isn't really good proof, but if you read further they now state that they use friction reducers in their oil.
Doesn't really matter to me what you or anybody else uses. Use veggie oil or **** in it for all I care.