I was reading the HD Service Manual and it states that you need to connect the bike to the dealership diagnostic tool to ensure all the air is out of the system. Is this true? Has anyone replaced the calipers, or the brake lines on a 2009+ Touring bike with ABS? Can it be done without the Harley diagnostic tool? I have bled regular brakes before, but not ABS brakes.

I purchased a 2012 Street Glide and want to replace the front brake line to a diamond back brake line when I replace the handlebars.


Thanks!

 

I replaced my brake line last Saturday with chrome braided. The only line I replaced was mid..from master cylinder to ABS pump. I bled the system at the ABS pump. Brakes work fine no DTCs or ABS light. The only thing I would suggest is getting new crush washers that have the gasket built in for the banjo bolts. I bought new copper crush washers from HD and the ones on the Master Cylinder would NOT seal. Not so quick trip to local indy to get washers described above solved the problem immediately. When I called HD to ask if they had washers with gasket I was connected to service dept who immediately told me I could not bleed the brakes without using Digital Tech II. As if that was the reason the freaking line was leaking...WTF. Just do it the same way you do a car. If You don't want to bleed it at the ABS pump you can do it at the caliper. Good Luck!!

 

Below is my opinion based on what I've experienced and what I've read.

I've bled my brakes twice with no issues, but I did not replace any parts. I just flushed what was in there to get in fresh fluid. I was careful not to introduce any air into the system.

My understanding is that the Digital Technician is needed to flush air out of the the ABS unit so the ABS will work properly. The brakes may work fine with air in there but the ABS may not work as designed unless the air is removed. At least that is the impression I have.

My understanding is that the Digital Technician somehow cycles the ABS unit to help flush the air out while bleeding the brakes. I do not know this for sure, it's just my impression.

I have read on here that one could reverse bleed the lines and reduce the chance of getting air into the ABS unit when replacing lines going into the ABS unit. Reverse bleeding involves pushing brake fluid from the caliper back through the ABS unit and into the new lines and master cylinder. This way should prevent air from going from the new lines into the ABS unit. I have never tried to do this be it sounds logical.

Hope this helps.

 

my 2 cents is its your brakes and your life do whats confortable if you do it yourself and you can sleep at night ok if not then take it to the dealer and plug it in.

 

With the 2012 you should only have to replace the upper portion of the line. The mid is hidden beneath the tank and you will never see it. I bled my ABS brake system and got almost all the air out. Took the bike into my local dealer and had him complete the job. He hooked it up to the DT through the ECM plug. All he had to do was pump the front brake a few times and it was done. Took about 1 minute. He did say I got most of the air out and there was very little left. There is a valve on the ABS module that only the DT can open. Makes brake bleeding very easy.

 

You don't need the DT for simply bleeding the brakes.

This is from the 08 Touring SM:



If ABS equipped, and either the ABS module or more than one brake line was removed, confirm that brake system is properly connected. To accomplish this, connect motorcycle to DIGITAL TECHNICIAN II (Part No. HD-48650) and perform "ABS Service" procedure in the "Toolbox" menu.

 

No expert on HD ABS, But I thought to bring this up. I work as an automotive tech. 10yrs ago went to a training class on the ABS. The Instructor said that the easiest way to bleed the ABS was to pull the ABS fuse and drive the car a few miles and then bleed the system. He stated that driving the vehicle with no fuse caused the valves in the ABS module to open allowing the system to be bled. I do that to this day while bleeding brakes. This procedure has always worked for Me. Wonder if this would apply to HD ABS. Anybody know?

 

I don't care how old it is..........it still needs to be answered if anybody knows the answer because a google search about bleeding ABS brakes reveals this thread in the first couple of threads found.

 

The mechanic who installed my apes said as long as you never turn the ignition on, and only remove the top hose from the master, that you COULD then bleed the system. The way he did it, and the way I have subsequently done it on my ABS 2013 Road King was from the calipers up. I power bleed the system by forcing brake fluid from the calipers (farthest one from the master, first) up to the master. I use a pump on the caliper bleeder screws and that forces fresh fluid from the caliper towards to the master cylinder. I go slow, as the master fills, I suck out the fluid and repeat.... Then I'm happy. I find this an outstanding way to change brake fluid as well, as simple maintenance every spring. One reminder that can cost you a huge headache if you forget. Antilock Harleys are DOT 4! Don't forget and use DOT 5 by accident!!!!!

 

Turning the ignition on will cycle the abs box valves and allow air to get into that portion of the system. If you do not turn on the power while bleeding you should be fine. Of course this all depends on how particular you are.

I am quite particular about my brakes but have never needed to take it to the dealer for the DT. I wonder if pulling the fuse bit will work on a Harley? Someone should try this.