Bleeding Brakes
Bleeding Brakes
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From:
No, you can do it yourself in your garage. The service manual and brake line installation instructions say you have to take it to the dealer or something bad will happen, not true.
I replaced my front brakelines when I installed Chubby WO 575 bars.
Here is how I did it.
Placed bike upright in wheel chock.
I removed the tank, seat, right saddlebag, and side cover, this allows access plus it gets the painted parts away from that nast DOT 4 fluid.
I masked off the area around the ABS block, the motor, and both front calipers.
I broke the bottom brake line free of the ABS block, then the calipers, bagged all three ends and removed from the bike.
I installed the new lower brakeline and torqued to spec on the calipers. I fastened up a piece of 1/4" ID clear tygon 2 feet long on each bleeder, filled each poece of tygon with DOT 4, then used my air compressor(set at 5psi) to force fluid to the ABS block, once the line was bled, I torqued the brakeline to the ABS block.
Next, I removed the top brakeline, installed the new one and torqued to spec on the ABS block and master cylinder.
Then, it was more of the filling up the tygon and forcing through the ABS block to the master cylinder. This can get kind of messy around the calipers, hence the masking of the area first.
Once no more bubbles come out of the master cylinder, it is done.
(Caution, if you use compressed air like I did, ensure you don't force any air into the lines. If you get an air bubble in the ABS block, it will throw the ABS code, the brakes will still work, just not in ABS mode)
I put the bike back on the kickstand, topped of the master cylinder reservior, and put on the cap.
removed all the masking, and rolled the bike outside and hosed everything off with soap and water to ensure all the brake fluid was removed.
The whole process took me about 45 minutes.
Hope this helps.
I replaced my front brakelines when I installed Chubby WO 575 bars.
Here is how I did it.
Placed bike upright in wheel chock.
I removed the tank, seat, right saddlebag, and side cover, this allows access plus it gets the painted parts away from that nast DOT 4 fluid.
I masked off the area around the ABS block, the motor, and both front calipers.
I broke the bottom brake line free of the ABS block, then the calipers, bagged all three ends and removed from the bike.
I installed the new lower brakeline and torqued to spec on the calipers. I fastened up a piece of 1/4" ID clear tygon 2 feet long on each bleeder, filled each poece of tygon with DOT 4, then used my air compressor(set at 5psi) to force fluid to the ABS block, once the line was bled, I torqued the brakeline to the ABS block.
Next, I removed the top brakeline, installed the new one and torqued to spec on the ABS block and master cylinder.
Then, it was more of the filling up the tygon and forcing through the ABS block to the master cylinder. This can get kind of messy around the calipers, hence the masking of the area first.
Once no more bubbles come out of the master cylinder, it is done.
(Caution, if you use compressed air like I did, ensure you don't force any air into the lines. If you get an air bubble in the ABS block, it will throw the ABS code, the brakes will still work, just not in ABS mode)
I put the bike back on the kickstand, topped of the master cylinder reservior, and put on the cap.
removed all the masking, and rolled the bike outside and hosed everything off with soap and water to ensure all the brake fluid was removed.
The whole process took me about 45 minutes.
Hope this helps.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tech7734
Frame/Suspension/Front End/Brakes
4
Apr 22, 2017 10:45 PM
