I am new to the 120R crowd and have spent most of today working on my PV 120R map. After 6 auto tune sessions, i have the engine running smooth, however it is still very hot.

With the temp on my PV showing 261 at speed this is much hotter than the 110 this engine replaced.

For those of you with a 120R, which tuner did you end up going with and if PV, did you dyno or load the 120R tune from dynojet, or something in between.

The PV autotune smoothed out my 120R through adjustments to the VE tables but the AFR is 14.4 which is probably the limit of the NB sensors.

my 110 the AFR was 13.8 in the cruising range and the temp on my PV was around 230. Which is where i think i need my 120R to be somewhere near.

thoughts anyone.

details, bike is 12 FLTRXSE CVO Skunk Model, 120R, 5.3 injectors, jagg 10 row, SE 1.5 additional qt oil pan, ventilator air cleaner, 58MM TB, Full Sac X pipe, Full Sac 2.25 CVO muffler re-cores (baffles), running lowers.

120R has 1350 miles on it, so far.

 

I can't answer your specific question as I have a stage 1, 103 FLHTCU. I just looked at my PV tables for the auto tunes I have as well as the original tune.

My OEM tune is .986/14.5 in the cruise areas
My Auto tune based on the FM tune is .981/14.4 with some of the higher RPM/Map cruise ares are 14.2 & 14.1

I run about 250 engine temps and 340 head temps at 65.

 

340 head temp! Holy smokes. Stage iV 103 and 260 head temps on a warm day. Most of the time it's around 230 - 240.

 

First off, throw away that ventilator AC. Barley flows more than stock. You will notice all your VEs shift when you do this.

Me, I use TTS to tune my personal 120r. I would think a TTS would give one a slightly better tune due to adjusting the MAP readings for the cams involved. Would it be worth spending another $450? Absolutely not!

Running hot like that could be simply not enough timing in the cruise areas. With a 120 size engine... things are no longer like folks with their 103, etc running around. Simply cannot adjust VEs and go home. Timing will be what is most important with that size engine and that size cams. AE will most likely need to be lowered to get the off the line gag out of the bike, too. Also, do NOT max out the throttle progressivety tables.

Run idle in open loop like 14.0. WOT will love 12.5.

The best bet for you would be to spend the extra money for the wide band kit. It's a big engine and you need to feed it, and give it what it wants, not what you think it wants kind of thing. The wide band kit will help you out with adjusting VEs in open loop. Most of your map should be in open loop, too... and I am Mr. Fanboi of closed loop. But... there ARE limits to its use with way larger engines.

You should be able to work things out nicely with a PV. It is the TUNER and not the tuning device used... you need to step up and learn more about tuning itself. Tall order, I know... but there it is. Big is different.

I just came in from riding my own 120r bike. It IS fun to ride. I do have a dyno, and that bike has taught me it is NOT all about sheets.

 

I'd go to at least14.2 -14.0 in your idle/ cruise range and taper down to 13.0 - 12.8 in the higher Kpa/RPM, and lugging areas.You'll be out of closed loop but with that many ci's you'll be lean and hot any higher. My afr table looks more like a boob than a flat top table at 14.2 to 12.8. I still get 40mpg,city.Also search the PV sticky for posts by stailjim and wurk truk for some good insights.

 

Why people spend all this money on builds but wont spend the money to get it tuned is beyond me.Just go get it tuned and be done with it and enjoy the bike.

 

You need to find someone who will tune (Timing and VE) that bike. I just don't understand how people spend huge amounts of money then wont spend 500 to get your bike tuned correctly.
If your going to tune it yourself get the wideband tuning upgrade for the PV.

 

[QUOTE=wurk_truk;12773289]First off, throw away that ventilator AC. Barley flows more than stock. You will notice all your VEs shift when you do this.

I have the new extreme ventilator on a customers 107 making 132 hp. Are you talking about the old style?

 

Power vision is pretty much the same thing as TTS Master Tune. You are programming the ECM. The problem is with his tune. And he should be able to run in closed loop. Something else is causing the uncontrolled heat.

 

thanks wurk_turk useful feedback and you answered the question.

as to everyone else. I am getting the bike dynoed, just not right now. So don't worry spending money has never been a problem. Right now i'm making it so i can spend it later.

Any more useful feedback on the tuning device to use would be helpful. Not certain the PV is my go forward choice. Maybe a TMax would work better?