ThunderMax & the Tri Glide?
#21
I would suggest you go back to map #185.You said that one ran good. Put your speedo,drive and gear calibrations in the Basic Settings, , leave the fuel settings alone but set your idle to 896 rpms . Ride for 30+ miles in different speeds/conditions then run an Automap. Repeat this 2 or three more times and you should have a pretty good map to work from. After that you can start making other changes.
Last edited by icebite1; 10-26-2013 at 06:31 PM.
#22
I would suggest you go back to map #185.You said that one ran good. Put your speedo,drive and gear calibrations in the Basic Settings, , leave the fuel settings alone but set your idle to 896 rpms . Ride for 30+ miles in different speeds/conditions then run an Automap. Repeat this 2 or three more times and you should have a pretty good map to work from. After that you can start making other changes.
#23
I'm a huge fan of the Thundermax ECM.
I put a Thundermax on my Night Train after I installed a Procharger. Initially, I loaded the Map that came with the Procharger and I was not happy with the results. The bike was a beast at WOT but it cruised horrible at part throttle. I looked at the map and realized that the cam specs for the Map that I was provided by Procharger were way different than what I'm running. I chose a new map that had cam specs similar to my cam, added a little extra fuel at the WOT settings and let the auto tune do its thing.
Its amazing how fast the ECM adjust fuel curves.
FYI, The ECM auto tunes AFRs but not timing. Thats why its so important to pick a map that's compatible with your cam and displacement.
I put a Thundermax on my Night Train after I installed a Procharger. Initially, I loaded the Map that came with the Procharger and I was not happy with the results. The bike was a beast at WOT but it cruised horrible at part throttle. I looked at the map and realized that the cam specs for the Map that I was provided by Procharger were way different than what I'm running. I chose a new map that had cam specs similar to my cam, added a little extra fuel at the WOT settings and let the auto tune do its thing.
Its amazing how fast the ECM adjust fuel curves.
FYI, The ECM auto tunes AFRs but not timing. Thats why its so important to pick a map that's compatible with your cam and displacement.
It does however make timing adjustments for changes in Engine Temp,Barometer and Intake Air Temp when the engine is running plus a seperate scale for boost applications.
Last edited by icebite1; 10-27-2013 at 11:58 AM.
#24
I have a 2012 TriGlide with V&H dresser dual headers, stock slip-ons, stock air cleaner, and Thundermax. I also started with base map 243 but still had knock/ping issues, also rear cylinder (left side exhaust) sounded flat and had marginal power. Checked the 243 base map and found the rear cyl timing was cut back 2 degrees. Went to the 185 base map and bike runs much better but I can still induce knock if hard throttle applied at lower (2.5 - 3K) RPM ranges in higher gears. Hoping I can get rid of that with some more tuning.
I think you will be able to correct your "knock" problem with one of the methods described.
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