20K Service
#31
09-20-2016, 07:11 AM
Yeah but if they tell ya they might have to kill ya! LOL But he did say shoe shine polish and that is a form of greasy wax. I remember when I was a kid and we actually had to polish our shoes the polish would build up on the sides of the tin, my Father would light it on fire, it would melt and settle into a nice flat coat on the bottom of the tin and we could get a few more shines out of the can...
And there is the old school *****.
#32
09-20-2016, 02:18 PM
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TexasMotorcycleRider (09-21-2016)
#33
09-20-2016, 02:30 PM
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So I am doing my 20K service and have some info for those interested.
CHECK YOUR JIFFY STAND....it's the last thing I would have thought would be coming lose but the bolt was almost finger tight. Not the frame mount but the one that goes straight down from the top.
No slack in the neck, front wheel or rear wheel bearings. I was worries about this after reading the post on here but all is good.
Need brake pads...this is the second round for my rear and the first round for my front. I use the rear a LOT in slow speed maneuvering. Apparently my rears are toast around 10K but fronts have about 15-20% left after just under 20K.
When spreading the brake clalipers you can leave the old pads in and use two screwdrivers in an x-pattern, push both sides at the same time. There are 2 pistons on each side. This will push fluid out of your reservior so, yeah, that happens.
Clutch fluid level actually gets HIGHER when the clutch wears. So, with the reservior level it should only be to the line. DO NOT OVERFILL!!
When pulling the plug wires....USE GLOVES. Hitting your knuckles on the cooling fins hurts and makes blood come out of your body.
Plugs do not come gapped....be sure to check when you get them.
Use loctite on everything...well, maybe not the plugs but everything else. My rear shock bolts were loose from when I got a new back tire and brake pads (emergency service at dealer).
If you are doing this after work allow a couple of days...if you are like me. I like to take my time and look up all the torque specs, procedures, etc etc. I am giving myself 3 days to complete the full service but could have done it in one...just like to take my time and double check everything.
So, what did we learn here...NOTHING. But if anyone was interested...there you are.
CHECK YOUR JIFFY STAND....it's the last thing I would have thought would be coming lose but the bolt was almost finger tight. Not the frame mount but the one that goes straight down from the top.
No slack in the neck, front wheel or rear wheel bearings. I was worries about this after reading the post on here but all is good.
Need brake pads...this is the second round for my rear and the first round for my front. I use the rear a LOT in slow speed maneuvering. Apparently my rears are toast around 10K but fronts have about 15-20% left after just under 20K.
When spreading the brake clalipers you can leave the old pads in and use two screwdrivers in an x-pattern, push both sides at the same time. There are 2 pistons on each side. This will push fluid out of your reservior so, yeah, that happens.
Clutch fluid level actually gets HIGHER when the clutch wears. So, with the reservior level it should only be to the line. DO NOT OVERFILL!!
When pulling the plug wires....USE GLOVES. Hitting your knuckles on the cooling fins hurts and makes blood come out of your body.
Plugs do not come gapped....be sure to check when you get them.
Use loctite on everything...well, maybe not the plugs but everything else. My rear shock bolts were loose from when I got a new back tire and brake pads (emergency service at dealer).
If you are doing this after work allow a couple of days...if you are like me. I like to take my time and look up all the torque specs, procedures, etc etc. I am giving myself 3 days to complete the full service but could have done it in one...just like to take my time and double check everything.
So, what did we learn here...NOTHING. But if anyone was interested...there you are.
I fixed the loose bolt on the jiffy stand by replacing it with a quality grade 8 bolt and washer and tightened the hell out of it with a tiny drop of red locktite on the threads. Problem solved.
If you just tighten it, it'll be loose again in no time. It's because of the traditional sloppy fit between the square on the top of the stand and the hole in the locking plate. That's why the bike rolls forward, and scares the heck out of most people, including me when mine did it the first time.
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