Q for all the FULL SYNTHETIC oil users....
#31
I change oil as according to manual.
5000 miles engine. Red Line 20W60.
10000 miles primary. Red Line MTL.
20000 miles transmission. Red Line Heavy ShockProof.
These intervals are for dino oil so with a good synthetic oil it would probably not be an issue to extend the intervals. Especially if the bike is used for long trips in dry conditions and stored in a warm garage. But itīs better to have good margins.
5000 miles engine. Red Line 20W60.
10000 miles primary. Red Line MTL.
20000 miles transmission. Red Line Heavy ShockProof.
These intervals are for dino oil so with a good synthetic oil it would probably not be an issue to extend the intervals. Especially if the bike is used for long trips in dry conditions and stored in a warm garage. But itīs better to have good margins.
#36
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Bafflingbs (06-24-2018)
#38
they are a good product for a lot of people but in my case (big bore with heads) they didn't work. The heavy oil works better than 20/50 in those cases. I run straight 50wt dino in my king but and amsoil in the glide. Both get changed at 5k.
#40
If it is in warranty, need to do what manual says. Out of warrant, here is an indication what going 10-12K which is what I did on a new car changing once a year on 05-20 Mobile 1. Mostly around town. The link timing chain was still dead on and the valve adjustment was maybe .001 off at 110K. Know it's a car but my guess is probably close to what most do on bikes unless you really run where it is really hot. Note that the timing chain is a link chain. However, the guides are huge and run almost length of chain with one being tensioner and one a guide and a top one for some reason..my guess is if something were to brake to keep chain from hitting valve cover.
Can remember years ago replacing oil ever 4 months. At 110 K, GM 350 Pontiac motor had a stuck hydraulic lifter. Tore it down an there was .005 cylinder wear.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 06-18-2018 at 04:32 PM.
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jammerx (06-18-2018)