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Weather has been relatively cooler lately, but noticed my radiator fans running for 20 seconds or so after normal rides, which is a little unusual but has happened on occasion before. Fans blowing hot air so I figured all was ok. Trailered out to Pigeon Forge for a few days of mountain riding and got the dreaded Check Engine Light and Temp Light on our last day of riding. Cooling system had a good workout since the Annual Rod Run was in town reducing traffic to a crawl on the Pigeon Forge Parkway. Fans work with the bike off and cool but can’t tell if the pump or thermostat are functioning. Fans do not come on with bike running even when bike is hot with CEL and Temp light on. Coolant felt room temperature in the overflow container, so doesn’t seem like coolant is flowing thru the system. Code P1019 showing with CEL and Temp light. Bike is in the shop now - hoping to get pump and thermostat replaced with the upgraded pump under ESP. 2014 Limited; 9,998 miles.
2014 FLHTK 31,300 miles *Just had 30k service done in late Aug, coolant replaced with HD 99822-02A
How I Learned My Pump Was Bad:
2wks ago I headed out on a 300+ mile ride and the Temp/CEL lights came on a few miles into it. Shut her down & Pulled out the temp-gun = 280 @ the plugs. Checked ECM codes P1019 came up. Fans worked when off, not when running + the pump wasn't vibrating.
Rode back home (10 miles) with stops every 5mins to manually run fans / cool it down (depending on who you talk to, can be ridden with caution since it also air-cooled; still freaked me out knowing how hot the bike temp was & didn't want to do more damage)!
I called my tech and he said find the "new" pump kit online (HD-26800107) @ either Surdyke ($296 "free-shipping") or New Castle HD ($265 + Shipping) - I ordered from Surdyke as they shipped same-day / received in 4 days.
*To my knowledge the old set-up isn't being sold any longer + why would you want to go with a sub-par product with known defects.
Total Cost = $500 (4hrs labor @ $50)
Put 700+ miles since the replacement, everything running GRT & eng temp hasn't been above 225
*Don't forget to clear the P1019 code once pump is replaced!
**Attached the "New-Pump" installation instructions + Pics
***He cracked open the old pump, wires had vibrated loose from the circuit board.
Last edited by DAtkinsoFLHTK; Oct 4, 2020 at 04:04 PM.
Reason: Add Pics
BTW, if you ever on the road, and have a cooling system failure. And you either Are not near a dealer, or the dealer doesn’t have the parts to fix your bike, you/can still ride it, The twin cool does very little for overall motor temperature, as it’s purpose is to take heat away from the exhaust valve area and consequently the rider’s butt. We learned this on a trip with a friend that had a new RG Ultra. He got a check engine, pulled over and called the nearest dealer which was only a few miles away. They towed him in, checked out his bike and said the cop,I got pump failed, and they couldn’t get one for a few days. They said he could still ride it, and he did for a few months until he got around to getting it fixed.
As I mentioned earlier, mine went out around 30K miles while on a trip in Colorado, rode it over 60 miles to dealer and got a new "Old style pump" because the new one was not yet out there. Now 43K more miles on the new "old" style pump and engine is doing fine, and so is that damn pump. I need it to fail in the next year so it can be replaced with new style pump.
Bike came back from the dealership with the upgraded water pump and seems to be running just fine. Plenty of warm air pumping out of the side vents, but haven’t gotten the bike hot enough to turn the fans on. Fans run under 1/2 throttle test so I’m sure all is well. While performing the 10,000 mile service, they determined my intake seals needed to be replaced, also under ESP. And being the helpful service techs that they are, they removed the Xieds I had installed a couple years ago and relocated them to my tourpak. After the 2-hr trailer ride home and a short test ride, CEL and code P0031 showed up. Stopped in to the local dealership to pick up a new front oxygen sensor, spent 20 minutes wrenching in my garage and all codes are gone. Still deciding if I want to reinstall the Xieds. A 2 1/2 week ordeal, but now all fixed and ready for our next road trip.
So my '16 Limited with just over 15K, the other day the engine and temp idiot lites came on, was closer to home than dealership, had the trailer it in, waited a week for new sensor. Test ride of about 8 miles after repair, took it to work, then home total distance of maybe 14 miles, two miles from the house lights again! of course it was after the dealership closed for their "weekend"... have to wait until Tuesday . only "up side" I did get the extended dealer warranty, (mainly for the tire coverage!)
have read "yes okay to ride" and "no, don't ride" so since it is a long walk to put a dead Limited, I'll get to the closest "safe haven" and wait!
So my '16 Limited with just over 15K, the other day the engine and temp idiot lites came on, was closer to home than dealership, had the trailer it in, waited a week for new sensor. Test ride of about 8 miles after repair, took it to work, then home total distance of maybe 14 miles, two miles from the house lights again! of course it was after the dealership closed for their "weekend"... have to wait until Tuesday . only "up side" I did get the extended dealer warranty, (mainly for the tire coverage!)
have read "yes okay to ride" and "no, don't ride" so since it is a long walk to put a dead Limited, I'll get to the closest "safe haven" and wait!
I rode my ‘14 Limited about 50 miles after CEL and temp lights came on, after a cool down period while I checked fuses and coolant level and such, with no ill effects. Was glad I had the trailer for the 9-hour trip home, though.
I rode my ‘14 Limited about 50 miles after CEL and temp lights came on, after a cool down period while I checked fuses and coolant level and such, with no ill effects. Was glad I had the trailer for the 9-hour trip home, though.
Rode mine 800 miles home in very high temperatures - no choice, and luckily, no ill effects.
Just received the new design replacement coolant pump kit (pn 26800107). The kit contains 2 different types of hose clamps. The instructions indicate one type of clamp (pic below) requires a special HD tool (HD-52004). These clamps appear to be self energizing. Install the clamp on the installed hose, remove the yellow plastic ring and you should be good to go. Am I missing something? Did Harley change the clamp design and not update the instructions?
Just received the new design replacement coolant pump kit (pn 26800107). The kit contains 2 different types of hose clamps. The instructions indicate one type of clamp (pic below) requires a special HD tool (HD-52004). These clamps appear to be self energizing. Install the clamp on the installed hose, remove the yellow plastic ring and you should be good to go. Am I missing something? Did Harley change the clamp design and not update the instructions?
It's the other type that is supposed to require the special tool. It doesn't though, you can just use pincer-type pliers, eg
2014 FLHTK - H2O Pump Issue & Fix
