finally had something to contribute!

took cardboard and made template for aluminum "hangers". Bought led amber run/turn sigs off ebay cost about $16.00.

Made hangers out of scrap aluminum cost $0. took flat stock punched correct size holes-one to mount to stem of mirros 3/8" and one to install grommeted led light facing front 13/16" then cut out template on band saw

bend to 90 degrees (fabricator at work helped with this step) you could use alum angle instead and drill holes.

took squared hangers and traced led grommet on them-head to grinder.
grind to your liking i rounded out with a little left

hit with fine grit sandpaper and shot with rattle can black.

I cut and soldered in new lights -viola!

 

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yessir, I liked the brick red color scheme as well.
that was over two years ago.

changed that to Arrest Me Black

going to raw metal now.
probably gonna let it self patinate.
that tank will never again see the light of day.
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clean?? OK.

I should start a 121 thread -
How To - Fun With Your 88 for Under 10 Grand..........
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it was pretty clean when I built it.............
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here's a link to a brief rundown on the details............
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no need for a buncha advertising
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my stealth A/C cover jewelry..........................
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come on down and ride the Texas Hill Country with us...........
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Barely worth mentioning, but my right boot was beginning to add scratches to the former owner's mess on the pipe next to the floorboard. I took some 1/8x1" stock and just made a guard to come off of the pipe clamp - I can feel it down there, stopping the boot. You barely notice it.

 

Ok so I have read through this entire thread best on the site tried a few of the mods stripped the horn off relocated under seat,painted my fork lowers,battery box,exhaust heat shields,Hypercharger,coil cover,pegs,etc.etc.etc. cost about 30 bucks in paint ,primer and clear coat. all I really did was sand the chrome off,prime,several coats of paint and clear coat so far it has held up great plus I like the look of it.Here are some before and after pics

 

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Good job.

this is the kinda mod that makes sense.

can't tell from the picture. bolted onto the footboard mount??
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always good to hear the thread is being utilized.
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nice job on the signals slinger. keep up the good work.

I started this thread with a signal tuck.....................................
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My boot guard is merely using the exhaust pipe clamp bolt on the Heritage. Others may have to use the rear floorboard pivot bolt, and cutting their guard in an "L" shape with the hole in the toe of the L, and bending it. Or, an "L" shaped 3/8" rod with a washer welded to the toe would suffice, with the toe extending further under the floorboard to keep it from tipping into the pipe when kicked. I notice many Harleys don't have the pipe right there by the floorboard anyway, but mine is in the worst place it could be.

 

"I did the latest iteration of my crankcase pressure evacuation system.
the third, best, and final version."
Hi Mud,
Iread this in one of your posts, just as Im getting ready all the bits to do your first crancase breather mod.
Did this mod work ok ?
and why are you changing the design not once but for a second time ?
This thresd has to be the best reading on the net, love it.
Regards,
Jeff

 

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Jeff, version one was on the Screaming Eagle backing plate and it worked fine.

(I've been meaning to list this setup in the Classifieds)

butt, the catch can was not quite acceptable.

here's version one (from posting # 125..dec 2007)........................
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version two came when I built the 121 motor and went to an HPI Induction.

At that time I went with the Doherty backing plate.
several ugly issues with that product.

and, I was still unhappy with the catchCan/reservoir

here's version two (from posting # 981..sept 2008)........................
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version three, I modified all the glitches out of the Doherty product,

and built my own reservoir (lower right corner in the picture below).

I'll write this one up with pix as soon as I have a chance.............
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Thanks Mud for the detailed explanation.
I have a standard 96ci Dyna so shouldnt have any problem with version 1.
It needs something as Im not happy all that crap going into the intake.Im sure thats what sticking the IAC up and every now and then the engine stalls, clean the IAC and the bike runs perfect till the next time.
Thanks again,
Jeff

 

Not 100% satisfied with my re-wrapping, but otherwise the improvement is awesome: it's not the same seat at ALL! I used this site as my main guide:
http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/modify_2.htm
The stock seat, skinned; note the angle gauge:


Cutting out the Butt, dropping and de-sloping:


Getting things even:


Pocket for WallyWorld gel pad:


Added 1/4" foam. They gave me too short a piece, but I wanted to ride, so put it on anyway. Nice color:


I got some wavy and loose skin in the seat pan after pulling tight and
stapling it, so will have to do it over later and maybe add a pic then.
Getting rid of the slope in back and dropping the pan has my buttcheeks sitting straight down instead of pulling backwards as before. The cupping feels awesome, can't wait to make a run. I read that shape is more important than foam, and I have both plus gel.
Oh, I should add that I was looking at and thru the top edge of my windshield; now I'm looking a couple inches lower, which is nice. Feels like 2" more backrest too!
Edit: wrinkles evened out after riding a while, so it just has a little character now:


This pic does no justice for how deep it really is, but I tried to give an idea. Any closer to the oil tank and I'd have a hot seat:
It's really not the same seat at all!~