Installation and initial review--Rockford Fosgate 300W, 4-channel amp
#1
06-30-2011, 10:30 PM
Installation and initial review--Rockford Fosgate 300W, 4-channel amp
After several annoying delays, the Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 amp arrived and I installed it yesterday. IT WAS WORTH THE WAIT!!! Previously, I had an Arc 125.2 mini amp (an excellent amp IMO) installed and driving the 6.5” Infinity Reference speakers in 2011 CVO Street Glide speaker boxes installed in vented fairing lowers; and, the HD Harman Kardon head unit driving identical fairing speakers and Hogtunes Hog Pod tweeters. I was very happy with this set-up—it provided clear, loud (enough for me) music even at Interstate speeds of 75-85 mph with Rinehart True Duals wearing a ¾ helmet. My only reservation about this set-up was HT tweeters tended to dominate the sound from the fairing. But that was not a major concern, and I only changed out the Arc 125.2 because of RF’s new amp, and a desire to have a 4-channel amplified system at a modest cost that would install inside the fairing.
Having ridden the bike with the RF amp installed for about 2 hours (1 hour last night, including a nice 25 mile run at interstate speeds; and, another today running errands in 90+ Atlanta heat for an hour) I can say my first impression is this amp is a great value and big improvement over my previous installation. Also, because I did not amplify the HT Tweeters (they get just the signal from the HK head unit), I can hear the fairing speakers as well as the speakers in the lowers.
INSTALLATION:
RF provides excellent installation instructions (but see the note on NOT using the remote wire if you are using speaker/high level amp inputs), and the amp comes with harnesses for amp audio inputs and outputs; the installer (me) simply needed to make the audio wiring connections to these harnesses: (1) from the head unit (in my case these were the front speaker wires disconnected from the speakers, and the “rear speaker” wires from the HK head unit that went to the fairing lowers speakers) which are the amp inputs; and, (2) output wires to the speakers. Pictured below are the harnesses, amp, and my iPhone 4 in its Otterbox case (included to show the small size of the amp):
http://
You’ll notice that two of the harnesses (the ones on the right side) have RCA connectors. These are the amp input harnesses. Since HK head units don’t have RCA connectors, those two harnesses are cut-off on the speaker wire side of the junction point (a/k/a “splitter” in the RF instructions). (Note: Iron Cross Audio (http://www.ironcrossaudio.com/) can install pre-amp RCA outputs on your HK head unit and these provide the “cleanest” signals from the HK head unit.)
(CAUTION--The connectors used for the inputs and outputs are the same Molex connectors, so if you aren't paying attention, it's possible to reverse them; i.e. inserting the input connectors in the output side of the amp and vice versa. If this happens, as it did to Blackpearl#1 as he was completing his install, the head unit may be damaged as his was. Also, put a piece of tape or otherwise mark the top of the amp indicating which side of the amp takes the inputs and the side that provides the outputs. Until RF changes the connectors so that inputs and outputs cannot be inserted in the wrong location, or provides different color connectors for inputs and outputs, the installer will need to be careful. Said another way, take your time; don't rush; and double or triple check your wiring before powering up the amp and speakers.)
I chose to retain the spade terminals for connecting to the front speakers (in order to retain the y-splitter HT uses for the Tweeter Pod). All other connections were spliced, soldered, and heat shrink connections.
The output harnesses simply connect to the speakers. As previously mentioned, I retained the Hogtunes tweeters and their Y-splitters which required the addition of some speaker wire and spade terminals to complete the wiring. The speaker wires to the fairing lower speakers were long enough to attach directly to the rear speaker output harness.
This picture shows the power, ground, and remote wires installed; the black connnector unplugs from the amp making the wire installation easy; and, the picture shows the amp mounted on Scott's bracket (Scott= 141Starlifter on HDF and his email address is below):
http://
(NOTE: If you are using high level (i.e. speaker wire) inputs to the amp as I did, do not install the orange remote wire shown in the picture. First, it's not necessary since the amp's input circuit recognizes the input voltage from the speaker wires/high level inputs and turns the amp "on." I verified this with RF's tech support (but connected the remote wire anyway) as well as testing the amp after removing the remote wire. Second, my reason for removing the wire was due to the amp not turning "off" when the ignition was in the "off" position. In fact, with the remote wire connected, the head unit behaved as if the ignition was in the accessory position, as did the Motolights controlled by the ACC switch on the fairing cap. With the remote wire connected, the ignition in the "off" position, and the HK "off," the clock showed time on the faceplate, and I could turn the Motolights on and off using the ACC switch! Bizarre; and, I have no explanation for this. But, removing the remote wire from the black connector solved this bizarre electrical behavior, and everything functions as intended. I'll call or email RF after the 4th to ask them about this. Perhaps it's just something unique to my bike; but, in any case, there's no need to use the remote amp connection if you are using speaker/high level inputs to the amp.)
Not supplied with the amp are the power, ground, and remote wires. RF recommends 10 ga. wire for power and ground. The power wire connects directly to the battery with an in-line fuse no more than 18” from the battery. You can buy amp install kits with what you need at many big box stores, and RF sells its own kit. The amp included a promotion card stating that if you use an RF installation kit, your amp’s 1-year warranty is extended an additional year.
I visited a local auto audio shop and the shop foreman, a buddy, fixed me up with some 10 ga. wire; I stopped by a local Radio Shack and bought a splice-in 10 ga. wire/30 amp fuse holder (Radio Shack p/n 270-1234); a couple of crimp-style ring terminals; and, made-up my own power and ground cables.
Per the installation instructions, the ground wire should not be more than 30” in length. I used the ground location on the upper triple tree that already secured a few ground terminals (e.g. J&M in-fairing CB antenna ground wire, etc.). The ground location is easily (relatively speaking) accessible after removing the fairing cap (on an EG/SG; don’t know about RG’s). Here’s a picture:
http://
Regarding the 30” ground wire length, I called RF Tech Support today (I had a question about the lights on the amp) and asked about simply using a far more accessible ground location under the seat that would be about 45” from the amp. The tech said the reason for the short length was to avoid “noise” from using long ground wiring. I had the Arc amp ground wire located at one of the two ground studs located under the seat and had zero issues; in fact, the power/ground cable supplied by Arc with their accessory kit used that location. If the tech had told me what he did BEFORE I installed the ground wire on the upper triple tree, I’d have simply used the ground stud under the seat that I’d used for the Arc ground wire.
Also, although I’d prefer to run the amp power wire under the gas tank, my ’04 doesn’t have the harness channels HD introduced in the ’06 model year, and previously installed harnesses (for my HD CB installation, Motolights, etc.) making running another thick wire under the tank problematical. Instead, I ran the power wire under the tank console along the left side; the + battery terminal and the amp’s battery wire connection are on the left side; and, the wire is less conspicuous than if it was on the right side.
Additional information:
RF’s website information on the PBR300X4:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=6&family_id =21&item_id=120465&locale=en_US&p_status=
Owner’s Manual/Installation Instructions:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/library/2011/3_Amplifiers/1230-56471-01_PunchBRT4ch-MAN.pdf
How to access rear speaker outputs of the Harman Kardon head unit to have four channel outputs (for SG, RG and EG Classics):
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...head-unit.html
(Note: Scott has a harness available for this; his contact information is above.)
Final comments:
My initial impressions are: (1) this amp is great value ($269 list)—300W, 4-channel, 4 ohm impedance amp intended for motorcycles and easily small enough to fit inside the fairing; (2) the amp is a big improvement over my previous installation--which was darn good IMO—like having two Arc 125.2’s driving 4 channels; (3) the installation is not difficult and the supplied harnesses make it easier—just buy a 10 ga. power/ground/remote wire kit, and have some spare speaker wire, spade terminals, etc. available to hook-up everything.
Although my particular installation is a four speaker set-up using fairing and fairing lower speakers, it should be typical of other installations on EG’s and SG’s with the difference being the second pair of speakers’ location (tour pak, saddlebag lids, etc.) and the wiring of the second pair of speakers. You Fugly guys are on your own since I have no experience with the RG.
If you don't want to access the rear speaker outputs of the HK amp, but want 4-channel outputs (i.e. two pairs of speakers), the amp has a 2/4 channel switch. Set in the 2 channel position, just hook-up the HK's two channels/front speakers, and the amp will split the signal into four channels (two front and rear channels); you just won't have fader control as you would if you used the HK's rear speaker outputs (and have the fader control turned on by the Digital Technician at your local HD store).
FWIW, I have the amp gains set between 4 and 5 on both channels, and selected AP (all pass). Check-out the installation instructions and you’ll know what I’m referring to.
For now, I’m going to ride and enjoy this big upgrade, at modest cost, to my bike’s audio.
Carl
PS: I'm not a tech or audio professional; I haven't personally heard or tested other amps and/or speaker combinations other than what's mentioned above; so, your experience may be different from mine. For me, what I have now is terrific; its cost was modest; and, required no special mechanical or electrical skill or knowledge.
** admin edit, the person you mentioned is not a sponsor here do not promote him**
Having ridden the bike with the RF amp installed for about 2 hours (1 hour last night, including a nice 25 mile run at interstate speeds; and, another today running errands in 90+ Atlanta heat for an hour) I can say my first impression is this amp is a great value and big improvement over my previous installation. Also, because I did not amplify the HT Tweeters (they get just the signal from the HK head unit), I can hear the fairing speakers as well as the speakers in the lowers.
INSTALLATION:
RF provides excellent installation instructions (but see the note on NOT using the remote wire if you are using speaker/high level amp inputs), and the amp comes with harnesses for amp audio inputs and outputs; the installer (me) simply needed to make the audio wiring connections to these harnesses: (1) from the head unit (in my case these were the front speaker wires disconnected from the speakers, and the “rear speaker” wires from the HK head unit that went to the fairing lowers speakers) which are the amp inputs; and, (2) output wires to the speakers. Pictured below are the harnesses, amp, and my iPhone 4 in its Otterbox case (included to show the small size of the amp):
http://
You’ll notice that two of the harnesses (the ones on the right side) have RCA connectors. These are the amp input harnesses. Since HK head units don’t have RCA connectors, those two harnesses are cut-off on the speaker wire side of the junction point (a/k/a “splitter” in the RF instructions). (Note: Iron Cross Audio (http://www.ironcrossaudio.com/) can install pre-amp RCA outputs on your HK head unit and these provide the “cleanest” signals from the HK head unit.)
(CAUTION--The connectors used for the inputs and outputs are the same Molex connectors, so if you aren't paying attention, it's possible to reverse them; i.e. inserting the input connectors in the output side of the amp and vice versa. If this happens, as it did to Blackpearl#1 as he was completing his install, the head unit may be damaged as his was. Also, put a piece of tape or otherwise mark the top of the amp indicating which side of the amp takes the inputs and the side that provides the outputs. Until RF changes the connectors so that inputs and outputs cannot be inserted in the wrong location, or provides different color connectors for inputs and outputs, the installer will need to be careful. Said another way, take your time; don't rush; and double or triple check your wiring before powering up the amp and speakers.)
I chose to retain the spade terminals for connecting to the front speakers (in order to retain the y-splitter HT uses for the Tweeter Pod). All other connections were spliced, soldered, and heat shrink connections.
The output harnesses simply connect to the speakers. As previously mentioned, I retained the Hogtunes tweeters and their Y-splitters which required the addition of some speaker wire and spade terminals to complete the wiring. The speaker wires to the fairing lower speakers were long enough to attach directly to the rear speaker output harness.
This picture shows the power, ground, and remote wires installed; the black connnector unplugs from the amp making the wire installation easy; and, the picture shows the amp mounted on Scott's bracket (Scott= 141Starlifter on HDF and his email address is below):
http://
(NOTE: If you are using high level (i.e. speaker wire) inputs to the amp as I did, do not install the orange remote wire shown in the picture. First, it's not necessary since the amp's input circuit recognizes the input voltage from the speaker wires/high level inputs and turns the amp "on." I verified this with RF's tech support (but connected the remote wire anyway) as well as testing the amp after removing the remote wire. Second, my reason for removing the wire was due to the amp not turning "off" when the ignition was in the "off" position. In fact, with the remote wire connected, the head unit behaved as if the ignition was in the accessory position, as did the Motolights controlled by the ACC switch on the fairing cap. With the remote wire connected, the ignition in the "off" position, and the HK "off," the clock showed time on the faceplate, and I could turn the Motolights on and off using the ACC switch! Bizarre; and, I have no explanation for this. But, removing the remote wire from the black connector solved this bizarre electrical behavior, and everything functions as intended. I'll call or email RF after the 4th to ask them about this. Perhaps it's just something unique to my bike; but, in any case, there's no need to use the remote amp connection if you are using speaker/high level inputs to the amp.)
Not supplied with the amp are the power, ground, and remote wires. RF recommends 10 ga. wire for power and ground. The power wire connects directly to the battery with an in-line fuse no more than 18” from the battery. You can buy amp install kits with what you need at many big box stores, and RF sells its own kit. The amp included a promotion card stating that if you use an RF installation kit, your amp’s 1-year warranty is extended an additional year.
I visited a local auto audio shop and the shop foreman, a buddy, fixed me up with some 10 ga. wire; I stopped by a local Radio Shack and bought a splice-in 10 ga. wire/30 amp fuse holder (Radio Shack p/n 270-1234); a couple of crimp-style ring terminals; and, made-up my own power and ground cables.
Per the installation instructions, the ground wire should not be more than 30” in length. I used the ground location on the upper triple tree that already secured a few ground terminals (e.g. J&M in-fairing CB antenna ground wire, etc.). The ground location is easily (relatively speaking) accessible after removing the fairing cap (on an EG/SG; don’t know about RG’s). Here’s a picture:
http://
Regarding the 30” ground wire length, I called RF Tech Support today (I had a question about the lights on the amp) and asked about simply using a far more accessible ground location under the seat that would be about 45” from the amp. The tech said the reason for the short length was to avoid “noise” from using long ground wiring. I had the Arc amp ground wire located at one of the two ground studs located under the seat and had zero issues; in fact, the power/ground cable supplied by Arc with their accessory kit used that location. If the tech had told me what he did BEFORE I installed the ground wire on the upper triple tree, I’d have simply used the ground stud under the seat that I’d used for the Arc ground wire.
Also, although I’d prefer to run the amp power wire under the gas tank, my ’04 doesn’t have the harness channels HD introduced in the ’06 model year, and previously installed harnesses (for my HD CB installation, Motolights, etc.) making running another thick wire under the tank problematical. Instead, I ran the power wire under the tank console along the left side; the + battery terminal and the amp’s battery wire connection are on the left side; and, the wire is less conspicuous than if it was on the right side.
Additional information:
RF’s website information on the PBR300X4:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=6&family_id =21&item_id=120465&locale=en_US&p_status=
Owner’s Manual/Installation Instructions:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/library/2011/3_Amplifiers/1230-56471-01_PunchBRT4ch-MAN.pdf
How to access rear speaker outputs of the Harman Kardon head unit to have four channel outputs (for SG, RG and EG Classics):
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...head-unit.html
(Note: Scott has a harness available for this; his contact information is above.)
Final comments:
My initial impressions are: (1) this amp is great value ($269 list)—300W, 4-channel, 4 ohm impedance amp intended for motorcycles and easily small enough to fit inside the fairing; (2) the amp is a big improvement over my previous installation--which was darn good IMO—like having two Arc 125.2’s driving 4 channels; (3) the installation is not difficult and the supplied harnesses make it easier—just buy a 10 ga. power/ground/remote wire kit, and have some spare speaker wire, spade terminals, etc. available to hook-up everything.
Although my particular installation is a four speaker set-up using fairing and fairing lower speakers, it should be typical of other installations on EG’s and SG’s with the difference being the second pair of speakers’ location (tour pak, saddlebag lids, etc.) and the wiring of the second pair of speakers. You Fugly guys are on your own since I have no experience with the RG.
If you don't want to access the rear speaker outputs of the HK amp, but want 4-channel outputs (i.e. two pairs of speakers), the amp has a 2/4 channel switch. Set in the 2 channel position, just hook-up the HK's two channels/front speakers, and the amp will split the signal into four channels (two front and rear channels); you just won't have fader control as you would if you used the HK's rear speaker outputs (and have the fader control turned on by the Digital Technician at your local HD store).
FWIW, I have the amp gains set between 4 and 5 on both channels, and selected AP (all pass). Check-out the installation instructions and you’ll know what I’m referring to.
For now, I’m going to ride and enjoy this big upgrade, at modest cost, to my bike’s audio.
Carl
PS: I'm not a tech or audio professional; I haven't personally heard or tested other amps and/or speaker combinations other than what's mentioned above; so, your experience may be different from mine. For me, what I have now is terrific; its cost was modest; and, required no special mechanical or electrical skill or knowledge.
** admin edit, the person you mentioned is not a sponsor here do not promote him**
Last edited by Harleypingman; 07-08-2011 at 11:06 AM.
#2
06-30-2011, 10:37 PM
Big Kahuna HDF Member
#3
06-30-2011, 10:42 PM
#4
06-30-2011, 10:53 PM
As for loudness, 75 watts per channel to hear music loud and clear running at speed seems to be plenty of power; and, I don't have the amp cranked up to max because it'd probably blow my 60 watt speakers.
Carl
Last edited by Harleypingman; 07-01-2011 at 06:28 AM. Reason: Clarified tweeter pod effect
#5
06-30-2011, 10:59 PM
Thanks Carl. Excellent job as usual. Right now I'm running J&M 5.25" replacements in the fairing off the stock HK head unit. I recently added a set of ARC Audio 6x9's to my bags via Cycle Sounds lids and am running them off an ARC 125.2. I didn't have my HK unit upgraded with pre-amp output. I have recently purchased a Sony DSX-S100 head unit and am waiting on some Biketronics parts to start my install. I think I will upgrade the fairing speakers to a 6.5" and run the RF amp to those in 2 channel mode. Does that sound like it will work, or would I better off selling the 125.2 and running the whole system off the RF?
Your opinion is appreciated.
Zach
Your opinion is appreciated.
Zach
#6
07-01-2011, 02:13 AM
Zach - The RF amp is not bridgeable if that is what your asking. The only way I see this amp worth it's wild is if you are running 2 pairs of (4 ohm) speakers...this amp is not stable at 2 ohm.
Albeit, it's probably **** if you are, but for those only running fairing speakers...the ARC mini is still the ticket IMO.
Albeit, it's probably **** if you are, but for those only running fairing speakers...the ARC mini is still the ticket IMO.
#7
07-01-2011, 06:10 AM
Thanks Carl. Excellent job as usual. Right now I'm running J&M 5.25" replacements in the fairing off the stock HK head unit. I recently added a set of ARC Audio 6x9's to my bags via Cycle Sounds lids and am running them off an ARC 125.2. I didn't have my HK unit upgraded with pre-amp output. I have recently purchased a Sony DSX-S100 head unit and am waiting on some Biketronics parts to start my install. I think I will upgrade the fairing speakers to a 6.5" and run the RF amp to those in 2 channel mode. Does that sound like it will work, or would I better off selling the 125.2 and running the whole system off the RF?
Your opinion is appreciated.
Zach
Your opinion is appreciated.
Zach
If the Arc 6X9's are 4 ohm impedance, I'd at least try them with some new 6.5" 4 ohm impedance speakers in a 4-channel configuration using the RF amp.
As for using the RF amp as a 2-channel amp driving a pair of speakers, can't see a problem in doing so with 4 ohm impedance speakers. In fact, a buddy bought two of the RF amps from Scott and is installing one in the fairing of his 2011 CVO SG to drive fairing speakers (Hertz component 6.5's) and fairing lower speakers (Hertz non-component 6.5'); and, the other in the detachable King tour pak to drive a pair of pod mounted 6.5's Hertz non-component speakers.
Good luck with your audio projects.
Carl
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#8
07-01-2011, 07:00 AM
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Amp install
I to got this amp and tried to install it and some how after reading the instructions and following it to the best of my knowledge I seemed to have cooked the radio. The radio still turns on but I have no sound. I disconnected the amp to see if the radio would re set and nothing. Can someone please advise me on the correct the way to hook this up. For dummies
Thanks
Thanks
#9
07-01-2011, 07:07 AM
Stellar HDF Member
