Rear Brake pad and removal of resovair cap
#1
Rear Brake pad and removal of resovair cap
I am going to change my brake pads on my 2013 Street Bob. Placing Lyndall Golds.
How do you get at, and remove the rear resevoir cap. I can hardly get my hand on it. It appears to screw off???
How do you add dot 4 to it once you get the thing off? Could use an eye dropper?
I do have a lift and a 2013 service manual and replaced the pads on my previous V Rod with no problems, but with abs and pad spring tabs it seems a little trickier.
Also are there any video clips of how to change the pads on the newer Dyna's with spring tabs .
Thanks,
Roger
How do you get at, and remove the rear resevoir cap. I can hardly get my hand on it. It appears to screw off???
How do you add dot 4 to it once you get the thing off? Could use an eye dropper?
I do have a lift and a 2013 service manual and replaced the pads on my previous V Rod with no problems, but with abs and pad spring tabs it seems a little trickier.
Also are there any video clips of how to change the pads on the newer Dyna's with spring tabs .
Thanks,
Roger
#2
On my 2009 Fat Bob, I was able to get the cap off of my rear reservoir using a long Phillips screwdriver. It's a pain, but doable. As for getting new fluid in, I use a syringe and tubing from my brake bleeding kit. If you can't find a syringe or don't have one, get a spice injector and just don't use the needle! It goes without saying, never use the syringe for food again...
#4
Rear Brake pad and removal of resovair cap
I am going to change my brake pads on my 2013 Street Bob. Placing Lyndall Golds.
How do you get at, and remove the rear resevoir cap. I can hardly get my hand on it. It appears to screw off???
How do you add dot 4 to it once you get the thing off? Could use an eye dropper?
I do have a lift and a 2013 service manual and replaced the pads on my previous V Rod with no problems, but with abs and pad spring tabs it seems a little trickier.
Also are there any video clips of how to change the pads on the newer Dyna's with spring tabs .
Thanks,
Roger
How do you get at, and remove the rear resevoir cap. I can hardly get my hand on it. It appears to screw off???
How do you add dot 4 to it once you get the thing off? Could use an eye dropper?
I do have a lift and a 2013 service manual and replaced the pads on my previous V Rod with no problems, but with abs and pad spring tabs it seems a little trickier.
Also are there any video clips of how to change the pads on the newer Dyna's with spring tabs .
Thanks,
Roger
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#8
I am going to be painfully blunt. I am all for learning how to maintain your ride, but you are dealing with a life and death safety issue when you mess with your brake system. Your questions strongly suggest that you have no idea what you are doing. I highly recommend that you take take your ride to a professional, or at least get a friend or someone who knows what they are doing and can help you with this job so you don't totally screw this up and kill yourself.
#9
Roger,
Unless you really feel the need to bleed the rear it's best avoided. I thought mine needed it because of the 2 year interval, but it caused me such a headache I wish I hadn't. Getting the cap off isn't overly hard just use a long screwdriver, cram your hands in from underneath, lift up a hair and slide over and wiggle it out. The problem is you can't really gauge how full to fill the reservoir. You'll think you have it. .then go to install cap and fluid comes overflowing out. Then gotta clean all that off, take the cap apart and clean it/blow dry to prevent leaks, repeat and hope you have it. .took me 3 frustrating tries and my fluid looked brand new before I started.
The rear pads I take the whole caliper assembly off the bike to change. My pads wouldn't come out with the caliper mounted the last time because the goop I put on the backs of them to prevent brake squeal was working against them. It's a tight fit but the caliper will slide out without removing the wheel on my bike. You can change them without removing the caliper. It's just a little tricky. Need to compress the pistons somehow to gain clearance then you should be able to wiggle the pads out. I just prefer to have the caliper off so I can see what I'm doing, clean up the pistons real well, and fully retract them before putting it back on to fit the new thicker pads.
Unless you really feel the need to bleed the rear it's best avoided. I thought mine needed it because of the 2 year interval, but it caused me such a headache I wish I hadn't. Getting the cap off isn't overly hard just use a long screwdriver, cram your hands in from underneath, lift up a hair and slide over and wiggle it out. The problem is you can't really gauge how full to fill the reservoir. You'll think you have it. .then go to install cap and fluid comes overflowing out. Then gotta clean all that off, take the cap apart and clean it/blow dry to prevent leaks, repeat and hope you have it. .took me 3 frustrating tries and my fluid looked brand new before I started.
The rear pads I take the whole caliper assembly off the bike to change. My pads wouldn't come out with the caliper mounted the last time because the goop I put on the backs of them to prevent brake squeal was working against them. It's a tight fit but the caliper will slide out without removing the wheel on my bike. You can change them without removing the caliper. It's just a little tricky. Need to compress the pistons somehow to gain clearance then you should be able to wiggle the pads out. I just prefer to have the caliper off so I can see what I'm doing, clean up the pistons real well, and fully retract them before putting it back on to fit the new thicker pads.
Last edited by mattVA; 09-26-2014 at 06:53 AM.
#10
I am going to be painfully blunt. I am all for learning how to maintain your ride, but you are dealing with a life and death safety issue when you mess with your brake system. Your questions strongly suggest that you have no idea what you are doing. I highly recommend that you take take your ride to a professional, or at least get a friend or someone who knows what they are doing and can help you with this job so you don't totally screw this up and kill yourself.
Good advise. I do enjoy doing as much as I can on my bikes. I replaced the pads on my V rod with no problem. I also have a friend who owns a motorcycle business who helps me.
Last time I had the pads changed by another dealer on my Street Bob, I found the front brake very spongy and had to open the resivoir cap on the front and squeeze the front lever about 20 times to get if firm. For some good reason the rear was fine. Possibly I won't have to do the rear resivoir this time again.
My pads are fine, but with the single rotor on the front , I find the bike does not stop well. I am replacing my EBC's( no better than oems) with Lydall Golds in the hope that it will help( not sure). I believe Harley cut corners and now is trying to correct with the new Low Riders. Almost all new bikes of the weight and size of Dyna's and Soft tails have dual front brakes. Have no idea how Harley got away with a single rotor for all these years.
Oh I was in the Navy from 1971-74. Was drafted into the army and then re assigned to the navy . You figure it out.
Last edited by rogersachs; 09-26-2014 at 12:57 PM.