Ok so my buddy calls me and tells me he has "this thing" rattling on his pipes. So i come over to check it out and his exhaust flange is off the studs. I guess the nut rattled off and the other is broken....well now what would be the easiest way to get the broken stud out of his head?

Also i looked up the torque spec for the exhaust stud flange nuts and it says it 60 to 80 in lbs. Thats doesnt seem tight enough when i replace the nut on the remaining stud and torqued down.....its what the manuel calls for but it seems like it isnt tight enough


Any thoughts or tips and tricks?

 

Is it broken off flush with the engine? If you have a steady hand an easy out might work but the easiest way might be to pull the engine and get the cylinder in a drill press or give it to a machine shop to do.

 

If flush or below the surface, bolt the flange in place and use that as a guide for the drill.
If you don't feel like you can do this, take the head off and take it to a shop.

 

I broke one a couple months ago, and ofcourse it was the one behind the frame rail.,, I was taking my bike for a bunch of service stuff the next day anyway so I asked the dealer to fix it who told me it should only be about $100.. well then they had to pull the motor, would be 3 hours.. I said okay, then 2 days later they had to send it to a machine shop,, that was another amost $200,, so like $500 in total to fix it,,


had I known it was going to cost that much I would have just bought some dremel tools & worked on it myself..




I've never got an easy out to work in my life,, I've heard you should use them with a hammer drill... I've always drilled the stud out,, in a tight spot, A high speed small tool like a dremel would be ideal to start the drilling.

 

You have to drill a hole in the broken stud in order to get a broken bolt extractor in it. Even that may not work. The bolt extractor might not do the job. (PB Blaster will help, but no guarantees.) You could even break the hardened bolt extractor off in the hole. (YOU REALLY DON'T WANT TO DO THAT!) If the bolt extractor doesn't do the job, you may have to drill the hole out to near the inside diameter of the stud's threads, and pick the pieces out. Maybe even use a Helicoil to repair the damaged threads.

In order for all this to be possible, the hole you drill has to be roughly a half to two thirds the diameter of the broken bolt. And this is important: THE HOLE HAS TO BE EXACTLY STRAIGHT AND TRUE INSIDE THE BROKEN STUD.

It's really hard, if not damn near impossible, to drill this hole straight like this with the head still on the bike.

Assembling the exhaust with some anti-sieze on the threads (and strictly following the torquing procedures) will alleviate this problem in the future.

 

I just tightened mine down (by feel) after an exhaust change. Thanks for the reminder, no more tightening without a torque wrench!

 

I only use a torque wrench for motor assembly heads/rockers important stuff, never used on any thing else no issues in 40 years working on bikes/cars breaking bolts nuts, blue lock tight only ,,, unless red is called for

 

First, you need a good centre. If the broken surface is flat, you may be able to use a centre punch. If not, you may have to use a motor-tool to mark the centre.

Second, you should really use a left hand drill so you don't drive the broken stud deeper into the head.

Third, drilling a hole at the proper angle requires a pretty good hand and eye - if you screw it up, you have bigger problems!

A couple hundred dollars for a machine shop is a pretty good deal compared to replacing a damaged head.

 

A 5/32" reverse drill bit will getter done. Use the other stud as a guide to the proper angle....And of coarse center punch it first...

 

Anyone who told you that the engine had to be pulled is looking for the long dollar