Fork oil ?
Should the springs be in or out, and with 2" over tubes, do I add two inches to the level of the fork tube gauge?
I think there was a post or two on it, but can't find it now.
Anybody??
TIA
Al...getting old sucks btw.
Edited to add: That assumes your WG has the 49mm forks...
Last edited by TinCupChalice; Apr 6, 2016 at 03:08 PM.
Edited to add: That assumes your WG has the 49mm forks...
Manual I have says 5.8" ??
Al
Edit: Wait, you've got a vivid black WG with blue flames, don't you
Last edited by TinCupChalice; Apr 6, 2016 at 03:31 PM.
I looked in to doing 31.50" tubes and that's what I was able to gather, you compensate for the added tube length with a longer spacer and additional fluid to fill them to the called for level of fork oil...
I looked in to doing 31.50" tubes and that's what I was able to gather, you compensate for the added tube length with a longer spacer and additional fluid to fill them to the called for level of fork oil...
Al
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Edited to add: That assumes your WG has the 49mm forks...
i had only ordered 1 expecting the same capacity as my 39mms.... just didn't think
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The fork oil level will be different depending on the springs you're using in the forks; with the stock springs you'd follow the SM guideline of a 95mm fluid level, with the Progressive heavy springs they call for a 150mm level due to the size of their springs. Remember to get your fluid level measurement with the tube fully compressed in the slider.
The stock spring is a short, thin coil affair with a long 10" spacer, the heavy Progressives are longer, thicker coils, and run a 5.5" spacer but in either case, you'll need 2 one liter bottles to do the job.
A quick trick for when you do your forks: it's easier to break the torque on the fork cap while it's still in the clamps. After you remove the front wheel and caliper loosen the pinch bolts and slide the tube up in the clamp about 1.25". If you try to break the cap loose with it held in the clamp you'll beat the crap out of it, with the cap above the clamp the clamp isn't exerting pressure on the cap. A quick strike with the palm of your hand on your breaker bar will do the job.
After you break the torque leave the caps on and pull the forks and disassemble at the bench. Invert the forks and pump the sliders to help get all the fluid out. When you refill add 10 ounces of new fluid and very slowly pump the tube in the sliders, it will start to remove the air; you'll feel it when the air is out, the tube will move very smoothly.
Once your fluid level is set slide the spring, washer, and spacer in to the tube and hand tighten the cap back on. I put a towel on the floor to protect the bottom of the slider and hold the tube in one hand and use the palm of my other hand to press the cap down. As the cap presses down I spin the tube while keeping the cap steady in the threading spinning the cap the opposite way; even with the heavy springs it doesn't require too much force to start the cap.
With cap hand tight slide the tubes back in the clamps with the cap above the upper clamp and torque it; held by the clamp you'd never get the proper torque. Level out the tubes, torque the pinch bolts and the job is done.
Edited to add: Don't forget to degrease the inside of the clamps and the fork tubes. That's about the last place I'd want grease or fork oil
Last edited by TinCupChalice; Apr 7, 2016 at 06:52 AM.







