Hello everybody

First of all im a 37YO 100% disabled vet. I did 8 deployments overseas and struggle at times. I have not been on here much and just had both of my hips replaced this fall and spinal neck surgery a few years ago. I only have 4,400 miles on my bike and hope to get on my bike more this spring and summer.

I have a 2012 Wide Glide 103 with the 204's in and pipes making 105 tq. and was wondering what is the part that fails in the gear and chain area?

Is there any way to aid this any way or is there a Titanium set of internal parts that will not fail? What mileage should this be checked or assembly replaced.

Thanks,

 

1, thank you for your service, 2, **** Isis, and 3, I was under the impression the earlier model bikes had issues with the tensioner, something I believe was corrected on 08+ bikes. I could be wrong, but that is what I have heard. I wouldn't really check the tensioner unless you're doing cams anyway, but I haven't heard of any titanium tensioner or chain available.

 

Thank You Sir.

I am talking about the SE 204 Kit, not and stock factory Cam Valve Train Components

 

Cam chain tensioner issues were with 06 and earlier bikes, 05 and earlier Dyna's. You are fine on your '12. Have fun riding.

Thank you for your service.

 

I have a 2012 103 with the 204 cams also. The problems your cite are from a few much-earlier bikes. The tensioner shoes wore prematurely. That's been fixed. Our 2012 models are ok.

I hope you like your 204 cams as much as I like mine.

 

I had the tensioners upgraded to SE hydraulic. 204 cams installed on my 2002 WG. love the cams.

 

am curious, am also thinking of 204 cams, did you notice any loss of gas mileage after the cam change? would like a bit more HP and torque in the 2-3k rpm range on the 14 low rider, have read some that the higher torque 255 cams can cause more pinging due to the higher dynamic compression.

 

I've got a 10' fxdwg 96" with SE204's and a RInehart 2-1, powervision, stage 1 AC from Fuelmoto. Fuel mileage is pretty much unchanged. I typically get around 43mpg. Since the cam change, worst mileage 36, best 52.9. I'm pretty quick at stoplights and on ramps. Not a big speeder but I do like to twist it and get going. I do lots of mixed riding, 99% solo. Around town, highway, a few interstate blasts if I'm in a hurry to get somewhere. It's a really good all around cam that will let you cruise 6th at lower speeds than you could with stock. Plus it's got a great sound at idle.

 

that sounds a lot what I am looking for. do a lot of 2 up riding, have a supertrapp supermeg and S@S stealth AC with power vision. have not been able to test ride much due to the crappy weather to see how mileage is with the fuel moto program, but my average is 41 mpg solo so if you get 43 that is a plus, and I run 6th gear at about 2300 rpm plus. thank you for the reply.

 

My fuel economy is amazing to me. First of all, instead of an expensive full dyno tune, I installed a Vance and Hines FP3 ($300) to reprogram my fuel map in the stock ECU. I downloaded their custom map that includes a map for the 204 cams. I then used Auto Tune to refine that map to my riding style/conditions.

The thing runs beautifully. No glitches, no flat spots, no pinging, just strong linear power is what I get.

On a recent 3000-mile trip I noticed that on the Interstate sections running a constant 80-90, I was averaging about 45 MPG.

Of course, on the curvy backroads, this number dropped but the same happened with my stock mapping.
My upgrade was a very economical one.

I highly recommend the 204 cam set. The bike pulls strongly below 3000 and continues to pull up to redline much better than the stock cams.

Also, I did not need compression releases in my heads even after I had dropped them down about .025 with MLS gaskets and milling. I also did not need different pushrods since I had the heads removed and could remove/install the stock ones.

Along with the cams, I'd recommend a free-flowing air filter. I used a K&N inside my Stage 1 open back cover assembly. I'd also recommend a free flowing exhaust. A 2 into 1 would probably be better but, for now, I kept my stock set up that is now straight-through open but retains the cross connector (important for low-end torque).

Also, after upgrading, you may have some clutch slipping with the stock clutch. You can install a stronger clutch spring but you'll have a harder pull on your clutch lever. I kept my stock spring but installed an Alto Carbonite extra-plate clutch ($120) using Mobil1 ATF in the primary. No more slipping and that clutch feels so good - light pull and great friction zone/take-up action.

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