sure they are fine. if you want to replace wheel and swingarm just reuse them - you can save $15 !
These bolts are stretch torque per spec, never to be reused. but you want to gamble hundreds of $$ and your health to save $15 - go ahead

 

All the torque-to-yield bolts I've encountered had AT MINIMUM a torque + angle (ie, 75lb-ft + 45 degrees) spec in the manual. Some have a direct length measurement (like rod bolts). This is because as the bolts stretch, the torque plateaus (sometimes even falls off) and a direct torque value becomes nearly useless. We have a relatively broad range of direct torque for the spec...but whatever.

I don't use the stock bolts...or hub...or pulley... No skin off my nose either way.

 

Yeah, I'd love to see any CREDITABLE info directly supporting the idea that they are torque-to-yield bolts...(Direct Support, not a "One Time Use" phrase in a manual). Over the years The FSM has transitioned from some sort of "Re-use" Policy to "One-Time Use". Along with others, I think it's a "eliminate variables" that could possibly cause problems by just telling everyone to install new bolts...Not that there's anything wrong with that.

I have NO problem with people replacing bolts, Probably a good idea. Everyone can weigh it out for themselves


For one Example...Here's MY post I made 1-1/2 years ago (Sportster Forum) regarding a thread Titled: Rear sprocket bolts, are they one use only?

 

My 2003 Touring SM says they are three use.





2003 Touring SM page 2-14

 

I was thinking the swingarm could shear the bolt heads as they backed out. Seen it before.

 

Absolutely! Uneven torque also puts uneven load on them, raising the risk of a cascading failure...one fails, then another, then BANG.

From a manufacturing/warranty/service policy perspective, it's a no-brainer. Lockpatch fasteners are specified and that's what the service department orders/stocks. ...snip... Mike laid it out nicely above. no point in me rehashing.

We're not Factory Service and don't have a line in to the engineers so it's really all up to us, as individuals, to decide how to proceed.

An inexperienced wrench should definitely follow the service manual, but more experienced folks will be able to find errors and shortcuts in the official documents based on years of experience...often in multiple fields/applications.

It's really just mental masturbation at this point.

Sploosh.

 

Looks like they rattled for a while..

 

Ouch! That happened to me on my Ducati once, many years ago. At high speed out on a country road, the back wheel suddenly locked up solid! By the time I drifted the thing to a stop, the tire was charred and horribly flat-spotted down to the carcass. I shat myself!

It seemed the bolts had loosened just enough to put a shearing load on them, and... ka-bang. After that, any bolt that is torqued enough to stretch the metal, particularly one that has any kind of shearing force applied (brake disk bolts, pully/sprockets etc), I replace them every time, and check their torques every few thousand kms...

Cheap insurance, plus I usually add a couple of the old ones to my bag-of-spare-bolts that gets thrown into my bags when I go touring.

I still remember the long walk to the next town's gas station to beg for random bolts, and changing out the back wheel on the gravel beside the single-lane, while massive Road Trains full of stinky sheep roared past at 100kph, then limping home after. Not fun!
.

 

This thread freaked me out. I switched out the stock S wheels early on, last year to the Renegades I currently have. I did not use new bolts. That was over 5K miles ago. I was not aware. I just checked them, and they are all still snug.

 

I've seen a lot of failed and ****ed up pulleys because people reuse bolts or don't follow procedure from manual or use bolts of incorrect size. Don't give advise that can land people in whole world of trouble