What pulley bolts?
#2
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
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#3
Yeah, MoCo uses heavy washers. I'm not completely sure why. It may be to limit the potential for fracturing of the pulley hub since they are likely cast. May be to spread the load further to help prevent flow and loosening if the pulleys are too ductile. Regardless, heavy washers can found in nearly any size, thickness, and material combination at places like McMaster-Carr.
Just a few examples...
I'm using ARP stainless with standard washers but I'm also using a PBI 7075 billet sprocket so I'm not worried about spreading the clamp load. I've only got about 5k miles on it...and one massive crash...but the sprocket and bolts held up fine despite ruining the hub they're bolted to. Time will tell.
Just a few examples...
I'm using ARP stainless with standard washers but I'm also using a PBI 7075 billet sprocket so I'm not worried about spreading the clamp load. I've only got about 5k miles on it...and one massive crash...but the sprocket and bolts held up fine despite ruining the hub they're bolted to. Time will tell.
Last edited by cggorman; 03-23-2018 at 11:46 AM.
#5
ARP, worth the peace of mind.
Ive reused the OEM bolts with no trouble after swapping pulleys and needing to install a spacer, but it's always in the back of my mind that they may come loose. But I cleaned and applied loctite to the bolts and torqued to spec per the service manual, then paint marked them so I could easily see if they started to back out and haven't had the slightest bit of movement out it them in 10k miles. But I did buy the ARP bolts as I'll be taking the pulley, spacer, and wheel apart for powder coating next tire change. Figured for the cost of ARP bolts it was worth it to go to a stronger and better looking bolt while getting rid of the problem prone stockers.
Ive reused the OEM bolts with no trouble after swapping pulleys and needing to install a spacer, but it's always in the back of my mind that they may come loose. But I cleaned and applied loctite to the bolts and torqued to spec per the service manual, then paint marked them so I could easily see if they started to back out and haven't had the slightest bit of movement out it them in 10k miles. But I did buy the ARP bolts as I'll be taking the pulley, spacer, and wheel apart for powder coating next tire change. Figured for the cost of ARP bolts it was worth it to go to a stronger and better looking bolt while getting rid of the problem prone stockers.
#6
#7
I used longer ARP bolts so the bolt shoulder (unthreaded portion) entered the hub. Now the hub is being driven by the bolts strongest area without the threads acting as a stress riser. I then bushed the sprocket holes down from .460" to.440" to tighten up clearance with the full .437" ARP's. Factory sprocket bolts are wasted (smaller in diameter below the head) and only measure around .390" which makes the bolts LOOSE in the sprocket.
I also drilled and safety wired.
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#10
This thread motivated me to get off my dead *** and install the bolts on my spare wheel.
The Harley washers are .125 thick and 1.110 in dia. gal, steel. 4140?
The Diamond Engineering washers are .125 thick and 1.125 in dia. 18-8 stainless.
To me, the clear choice is the Diamond Engineering kit
The Harley washers are .125 thick and 1.110 in dia. gal, steel. 4140?
The Diamond Engineering washers are .125 thick and 1.125 in dia. 18-8 stainless.
To me, the clear choice is the Diamond Engineering kit