If you expand, you might be able to see the pitting. I can when looking at the pics from my phone.


The chrome stripped off nicely on the nickle plated parts. Harley must use quite a thick nickle base. I didn't dip the shift shaft, the pegs, or the shifter connecting link rod because it has rubber boots over both swivle joints. It can't be powder coated so there was no point. Just going to paint it.

So earlier I stripped chrome from 2 sets of Dyna mid controls. I did so following instructions from a few different threads. All the parts stripped down to their nickle coating exactly like what I read said they would. The rear brake pedals were a different story. For the first ten minutes the bubbles were small and the solution was clear. I pulled the parts every five minutes to check on them. At around the twelve minute mark I noticed the 30% muratic by 70% water mix started bubbling much faster and the solution started to get dark. I instantly pulled all the parts and like I said everything was fine but the rear brake pedals. They were both covered in this thick black sludge. At first I thought it was a paint or even copper being removed. I dried the pedals and took a copper wire brush to them. I got to the bare metal underneath. The steel was there but it was micro pitted all over. I then started to think the increase in reacation was the acid actually eating the steel. Everything I read said that when the parts got stripped down to steel the reaction would cease. People said that steel resists muratic acid well. If you expand the pictures you can see the pitting. It's not real deep so I am hoping they will be OK to powdercoat. The guy doing the coating is out of town so he won't be able to tell me what's what until Tuesday. If anyone can explain to me exactly what wrong I would appreciate it. I followed the directions given to the letter. I have a feeling the several articles I read were by novist's that don't know chemistry well or metallurgy well, similar to myself.
The crappie thing is I almost was going to build a electrolytic tank from a bucket and car charger and do it the supposed correct way. That's what I get for taking the lazy route.

Here is a a couple links if anyone needs to strip chrome. Having not done it I can't vouche for the electrolytic method but after reading from countless sources, it seems to be the preferred method. I personally will never use acid again. I don't know enough about metallurgy to ensure that I don't damage my parts. Supposedly using electrolytic method you can set it at 6 volts and 1amp and it strips much slower, so unless you basically ignore it you really can't muck it up.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?109236-Muriatic-acid-for-removing-chrome

 

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