Dynas and Target Tune
#1
Dynas and Target Tune
First off, I realize this would be better posted in the Tuner Section, but after reading most if not all of the recent threads on Target Tune got me like:
So instead of posing there and getting bombarded with crazy detailed "if's and's or but's" over data, I'd rather ask the average joe six pack real world thoughts on the product. Unfortunately just like everything else, either people love it, or they think it's snake oil. I've got the Power Vision and will be replacing pipes soon which offer ports for the wideband sensors. Before I start thinking about throwing more money in my current setup, is the TT and widebands worth the somewhat minimal investment without going full dyno tune?
So instead of posing there and getting bombarded with crazy detailed "if's and's or but's" over data, I'd rather ask the average joe six pack real world thoughts on the product. Unfortunately just like everything else, either people love it, or they think it's snake oil. I've got the Power Vision and will be replacing pipes soon which offer ports for the wideband sensors. Before I start thinking about throwing more money in my current setup, is the TT and widebands worth the somewhat minimal investment without going full dyno tune?
Last edited by ThePaintPirate; 11-16-2018 at 05:23 PM.
#2
#4
Noticed that you will run a RR3. I run a RR2, if I can give some advice :
- Put both O2 (WBO2) after installing the pipe, otherwise the rear one hit the trans top cover. They are easily reachable with a 22mm wrench.
- Using 12pt ARP stainless nut on the exhaust flanges looks real good, and are much better than OEM nuts . On a RR2 I can check the torque with heatshields on and using a 1/4' socket
- Torque the exhaust flanges first, then the muffler to the bracket, and finish by torquing the muffler clamp.
- Put both O2 (WBO2) after installing the pipe, otherwise the rear one hit the trans top cover. They are easily reachable with a 22mm wrench.
- Using 12pt ARP stainless nut on the exhaust flanges looks real good, and are much better than OEM nuts . On a RR2 I can check the torque with heatshields on and using a 1/4' socket
- Torque the exhaust flanges first, then the muffler to the bracket, and finish by torquing the muffler clamp.
#5
I read most of the threads and posts you were involved in and saw that you had good things to say about it. The other two that chimed in most of the time we're squabbling over symantics and provided tuner specific info and not for the end user. Glad to see you still like it.
#6
Noticed that you will run a RR3. I run a RR2, if I can give some advice :
- Put both O2 (WBO2) after installing the pipe, otherwise the rear one hit the trans top cover. They are easily reachable with a 22mm wrench.
- Using 12pt ARP stainless nut on the exhaust flanges looks real good, and are much better than OEM nuts . On a RR2 I can check the torque with heatshields on and using a 1/4' socket
- Torque the exhaust flanges first, then the muffler to the bracket, and finish by torquing the muffler clamp.
- Put both O2 (WBO2) after installing the pipe, otherwise the rear one hit the trans top cover. They are easily reachable with a 22mm wrench.
- Using 12pt ARP stainless nut on the exhaust flanges looks real good, and are much better than OEM nuts . On a RR2 I can check the torque with heatshields on and using a 1/4' socket
- Torque the exhaust flanges first, then the muffler to the bracket, and finish by torquing the muffler clamp.
#7
Being in the middle of the corn fields, our options are limited for dynos and tuners. Closest "performance" shop I know of is about 3-4 hours away. The TT should do what I need it to and at a reasonable cost.
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#8
I got a 2006 Dyna, bought it bone stock. I put a Ness Big Sucker, V&H Straight Shots (full system) and Andrews 26 cams, SE compensator, Baker IPB and a Power Vision...got a tune from Jamie at Fuel Moto and bike ran great. Then I bought the Target Tune and Jamie converted my map and it runs FANTASTIC. It was night and day difference...no end to the torque (even tho it's still an 88") absolutely smooth as glass from idle to redline. I'd do it again in a minute.
The following 2 users liked this post by Trench:
BelchFire (11-19-2018),
JayStronghawk (11-18-2018)
#9
I have it running on my bike and its a great addon, but you rather need to get the map close to begin with, something I noticed is that after installing the TT system the bike ran smoother at steady speeds, also it's great when you change something in your bike and do an autotune as it will compute the VE using the actual AFR, using this as a first step and then logging the data and making small changes gets you very close to the "perfect" map
#10