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2009 HD FXD Super Glide Ignition Switch

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  #11  
Old 12-30-2018, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by itsTHATnick
That ring does not come off. If you loosen it off of the ignition, then it tightens to the hole. If you tighten it to the ignition, then it loosens in the hole. I won't be able to remove it until the entire thing is out.
 
  #12  
Old 12-30-2018, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6 Formula
Exactly! The whole ignition rocks out as if you're turning it to the back of the bike counter clockwise to roll it out. The fork lock is the part that centers it. You can't just pull it out. Watch the fork lock part and rotate it back toward the rear of the bike so the fork lock rocks out then it will com out kinda sideways.
 
  #13  
Old 12-30-2018, 11:04 PM
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  #14  
Old 12-31-2018, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by itsTHATnick
That ring does not come off. If you loosen it off of the ignition, then it tightens to the hole. If you tighten it to the ignition, then it loosens in the hole. I won't be able to remove it until the entire thing is out.
This was a bad choice of words on my part. It needs to be in the loosened position in order to wiggle the ignition switch
 
  #15  
Old 01-08-2019, 08:49 AM
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So, I have been looking into parts. Since I have to replace the entire mechanism per the insurance, I was considering going with a Wide Glide fork lock and relocating the ignition switch. Does anybody know if the 09 WG Forklock fits in the SG Neck?
 
  #16  
Old 01-08-2019, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by itsTHATnick
So, I have been looking into parts. Since I have to replace the entire mechanism per the insurance, I was considering going with a Wide Glide fork lock and relocating the ignition switch. Does anybody know if the 09 WG Forklock fits in the SG Neck?
I think it will fit. If you look at the differences between the Wide Glide (34* neck) and the rest of the Dyna (29* neck) frames, the switch is located in the same location right next to the neck on both frames. The Wide Glide has extra material to the left of the switch for the extra rake.

I put Wide Glide triple clamps on my Low Rider, locking pin hole on the Wide Glide triple clamp was in the same location as the Low Rider triple clamp.


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  #17  
Old 01-09-2019, 03:20 PM
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Default Ignition/ForK Lock

Good way to explain it Jimmy.
 
  #18  
Old 06-20-2020, 08:10 PM
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WS6 Formula, I hope you still are watching this thread. I get how to "loosen" the nut clockwise to make the switch assembly thinner than the cavity in the frame so it can be removed to unplug the wiring BUT how the hell do you get the fork lock boss to come out of its hole in the bottom of that cavity so that the whole assembly will slide backwards out of frame?

The service manual just says to turn the lock assembly clockwise to run the nut in and says again to turn clockwise to get the fork lock boss to release but either I am not understanding what the manual says or something is screwed up in the directions. I have a 2009 Low Rider with the same ignition lock and I need to find out how to get it out of the frame to unplug the wires so I don't destroy the plug end trying to undo it with the ignition switch in the frame.

Thanks for any help.
 
  #19  
Old 06-20-2020, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by TerryMcQ
WS6 Formula, I hope you still are watching this thread. I get how to "loosen" the nut clockwise to make the switch assembly thinner than the cavity in the frame so it can be removed to unplug the wiring BUT how the hell do you get the fork lock boss to come out of its hole in the bottom of that cavity so that the whole assembly will slide backwards out of frame?

The service manual just says to turn the lock assembly clockwise to run the nut in and says again to turn clockwise to get the fork lock boss to release but either I am not understanding what the manual says or something is screwed up in the directions. I have a 2009 Low Rider with the same ignition lock and I need to find out how to get it out of the frame to unplug the wires so I don't destroy the plug end trying to undo it with the ignition switch in the frame.

Thanks for any help.
I haven't actually ever removed the switch / lock assembly, but I'm guessing that rotating the assembly clockwise looking forward from the back of the bike is what they meant in the manual, and is your lock unlocked with the pin fully retracted? Also helps to look up the part number and Google search images to see what you are dealing with.



 
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  #20  
Old 06-20-2020, 10:57 PM
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Your pictures look a lot like it. There is something wrong I think in the service manual instructions because the lock assembly doesn't turn any more clockwise past when the nut bottoms out on the rest of the switch. There must be some other way the switch is supposed to rotate for the fork lock boss to come out of its frame hole. And yes, the fork lock pin is retracted as much as it will retract. If I had a new switch, i would get a screwdriver between the switch and the front of the mounting hole and pry it out and if that was wrong at least I'd already have the new switch. But that isn't the case so I will fiddle with it and carefully unplug the wiring with the switch mounted in the frame. Replugging the new harness will be easy.
 


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