Rear Brake reservoir relocation
#1
Rear Brake reservoir relocation
Owning a 2012 switchback has it's ups and not many downs, One of them ,however, is the location of the rear brake reservoir, Is there a dyna that has a more readily available set up that might bolt up to the switchback frame? As it is now the rear exhaust frame and exhaust muffler must be removed for proper service.....I swear some of these engineers are just plain evil.
The following users liked this post:
vistavette (03-12-2020)
#2
#4
I've needed to flush my rear brake, oh, since I bought it (guilty)! I have a problem of the reservoir blocked under the swingarm to take off the cap so, (and maybe this could help you too) I pose this:
Now, I have not ever taken apart the reservoir but staring at the part and going over the SM it looks to me as if (on my bike -'14 SB) that if I were to loosen the jamnut highlighted in yellow in the photos that maybe I could slide the reservoir to the right plenty enough to access the cap screws clear of the swingarm. Requires removal of part number 47200009 (highlighted by red).
I see three things to consider doing this:
1) Don't screw anything up.
2) Do not let the banjo bolt seal become unsealed (not good).
3) Make sure that the right to left movement of the component doesn't affect the action/play of the brake pedal after bleeding.
I don't think the side to side movement will affect the distance (front to back), I think it would be so minimal that even if it were corrections could be made after the jamnut is locked down via the brake rod adjustment.
If the brake switch/banjo bolt threads into the cartridge body and the jamnut (yellow highlighted) secures the cartridge body to the mount then I think this might work.
Without a pic of what you are up against I don't know if this helps but if it does work then it would help a number of people with my set up. If this is not revelant than skip this post.
For liability, here is the disclaimer: Proceed at your own risk; Good luck!
Now, I have not ever taken apart the reservoir but staring at the part and going over the SM it looks to me as if (on my bike -'14 SB) that if I were to loosen the jamnut highlighted in yellow in the photos that maybe I could slide the reservoir to the right plenty enough to access the cap screws clear of the swingarm. Requires removal of part number 47200009 (highlighted by red).
I see three things to consider doing this:
1) Don't screw anything up.
2) Do not let the banjo bolt seal become unsealed (not good).
3) Make sure that the right to left movement of the component doesn't affect the action/play of the brake pedal after bleeding.
I don't think the side to side movement will affect the distance (front to back), I think it would be so minimal that even if it were corrections could be made after the jamnut is locked down via the brake rod adjustment.
If the brake switch/banjo bolt threads into the cartridge body and the jamnut (yellow highlighted) secures the cartridge body to the mount then I think this might work.
Without a pic of what you are up against I don't know if this helps but if it does work then it would help a number of people with my set up. If this is not revelant than skip this post.
For liability, here is the disclaimer: Proceed at your own risk; Good luck!
Last edited by Suede Blue Man; 02-03-2020 at 04:28 PM.
#5
I've needed to flush my rear brake, oh, since I bought it (guilty)! I have a problem of the reservoir blocked under the swingarm to take off the cap so, (and maybe this could help you too) I pose this:
Now, I have not ever taken apart the reservoir but staring at the part and going over the SM it looks to me as if (on my bike -'14 SB) that if I were to loosen the jamnut highlighted in yellow in the photos that maybe I could slide the reservoir to the right plenty enough to access the cap screws clear of the swingarm. Requires removal of part number 47200009 (highlighted by red).
I see three things to consider doing this:
1) Don't screw anything up.
2) Do not let the banjo bolt seal become unsealed (not good).
3) Make sure that the right to left movement of the component doesn't affect the action/play of the brake pedal after bleeding.
I don't think the side to side movement will affect the distance (front to back), I think it would be so minimal that even if it were corrections could be made after the jamnut is locked down via the brake rod adjustment.
If the brake switch/banjo bolt threads into the cartridge body and the jamnut (yellow highlighted) secures the cartridge body to the mount then I think this might work.
Without a pic of what you are up against I don't know if this helps but if it does work then it would help a number of people with my set up. If this is not relevant than skip this post.
For liability, here is the disclaimer: Proceed at your own risk; Good luck!
Now, I have not ever taken apart the reservoir but staring at the part and going over the SM it looks to me as if (on my bike -'14 SB) that if I were to loosen the jamnut highlighted in yellow in the photos that maybe I could slide the reservoir to the right plenty enough to access the cap screws clear of the swingarm. Requires removal of part number 47200009 (highlighted by red).
I see three things to consider doing this:
1) Don't screw anything up.
2) Do not let the banjo bolt seal become unsealed (not good).
3) Make sure that the right to left movement of the component doesn't affect the action/play of the brake pedal after bleeding.
I don't think the side to side movement will affect the distance (front to back), I think it would be so minimal that even if it were corrections could be made after the jamnut is locked down via the brake rod adjustment.
If the brake switch/banjo bolt threads into the cartridge body and the jamnut (yellow highlighted) secures the cartridge body to the mount then I think this might work.
Without a pic of what you are up against I don't know if this helps but if it does work then it would help a number of people with my set up. If this is not relevant than skip this post.
For liability, here is the disclaimer: Proceed at your own risk; Good luck!
#6
What they said I guess.
Well, that is all a pain for sure but as often as you do it, you can just take all the exhaust and all that heavy looking stuff off, do it right, put it back on and bam, good for another 10 years
Well, that is all a pain for sure but as often as you do it, you can just take all the exhaust and all that heavy looking stuff off, do it right, put it back on and bam, good for another 10 years
Last edited by Suede Blue Man; 02-03-2020 at 07:58 PM. Reason: I put a comma after a conjunction and so removed it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post