Just installed Chrome Bobber Style Complete HiFlow 587 Air Cleaner by DK custom. I like it, especially the old school chrome round cover.

However, I didn't notice there is no clearance between cover's notch and tank. After a few miles of riding, the edge of the cover cut a perfect line on my tank.

I emailed DK custom. Hope there is a solution for this issue. Now I applied tape on the tank as a temporary solution.

My bike is 2008 fat bob. Is there any way to remove this scratch or make it unobvious?

 

You sure you got the proper one for your 'model' of bike ? Mines is nowhere near my tank.

 

I suspect that's wrong for your application. Should have clearance if correct.

 

Yes, I think so. I checked the description of this item. It fits 2000-up dyna. Do you have 2008 fat bob too?

 

I installed it following the instructions. But I will double check. I searched the forum, same issue happened to that guy.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ches-tank.html

 

If it was me, this is what I would do. This isn't necessarily the right or best way to do it, just how I would do it based on what I know as of today.

You can pick your poison here for which type of tedium you prefer to endure depending on your goals and preferences. You could either do extra work up front to make the actual repair easier, or skip that part and make the whole job more tedious but 'simpler.' I tend to choose the former: I take things fully apart and do them "properly" - whether or not it's proper is debatable, I suppose. For me, though, I really like doing this sort of thing, I'm usually doing many things at the same time, and it's usually the first time I go into a particular area so I tend to take things apart as much as possible.

I would drain and remove the tank. It's a bit more involved than popping the tank off of an old carbed bike with a petcock, but once you're set up for it, it's not that bad. Make the crimper tool for the hose clamps by blunting the edges on a set of nipper pliers. Then you can use the OEM hose clamps instead of those ugly gear clamps. I built a stand out of wood to hold my tank for working on it, so I would put it on there. I don't ever want the tank kicking around loose on the floor, so if it's not on the bike it goes on the stand. Maybe it's time for your fuel filter service, so could do that at the same time as well.

Using a magnifying glass of some sort (like the headband ones) and something like a dentist's pick, clean the wound of any loose edges and anything proud of the surface. Choose an appropriate paint. There's probably a nice primer you could get for this, but when I did my wheel I just used Tremclad for the gouge in the powdercoating. My wheels are just gloss black so it wasn't that hard to find something. You may have to get a touch-up kit from the MoCo, depending on your paint colour. Fill the gouge with the smallest amount of paint that you can manage to get on the tip of a sewing needle. Wipe it off and try again, that's too much paint. Nope, still too much; try again. Aim to get multiple layers in there, with each layer being as thin as possible, and allow each one to dry completely. Twenty-four hours or whatever it takes. Keep going until the valley is filled in, but be careful to not make too much of a hill because it will take forever to blend.

Choose the highest sandpaper grit you think you can get away with. The lower you go the more work it will be overall. I think 400 is where I would start. Don't skip any grits. Cut little strips and use an eraser that you've cut to size as a sanding block. Carefully wet sand the scar back down so that it is completely flush with the rest of the paint. Is there a dip where the level was a bit too low? Fill it back in and start over. When you move up to 800-grit, go perpendicular to your 400-grit strokes and use angled light to see how you're doing. Higher grits need to completely erase the lines from lower grits or they will remain visible. Use blue tape to mask off your work area so it doesn't get too big, but don't work right to the edge of it or it will be hard to blend.

Go all the way up through the grits to 3000 if you can. Then, use rubbing compound by hand, followed by polishing compound. Finish up with 3M Swirl-Mark Remover on a handheld polisher. Step back and enjoy. If everything went well you should barely be able to see where the gouge is. It will be invisible from two feet away. Get really high while sitting in a rocking chair looking at your bike. Contemplate whether or not it was worth it to spend a full week, a bunch of money, and all that effort on something that almost nobody would ever notice. Enjoy the beauty and satisfaction of your work, and know that it is good. Go back to thinking about space and whatnot.

That's just what I would do, but I'm no expert. I've done this once on my wheel and if it wasn't for the slightly different shade of black in the touch-up paint, you would not be able to see the repair at all. If there's a better way to do this, I'm always happy to learn.

 

No way DK's fault that cover I have on mine and there's plenty. Look





post a pic of The scoot

 

User error

 

The Fat Bob has the same fuel tank as the FXDC and FXDWG, and it is slightly larger than the other Dynas. That could be part of the issue. If your engine wasn't aligned in the frame properly, it could bring the air cleaner upwards and inboard some distance, causing it to contact the tank. The air cleaner might also be installed incorrectly somehow.

Seems to me that if it was a fitment issue, it would have likely come up often by now.

 

If that's Charcoal Pearl then I think this is the paint code if it helps: PPG Deltron, #934473.