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The wrist angle is very good for me, too. The only thing that is a little odd to me is on full turn with a low master cylinder, you might suck air into the line if you apply the brake (which would be a bad idea anyway...). But that can also be partially remedied by rolling the bars forward or backward a bit.
In hindsight, I should have gone with the 12" rather than 14", but that's just how it goes.
I'm 6'5 and started with 12's first, then went to 14's, then put a 3 in riser on, now looking at 16 to 18. I feel like I need 2 to 3 more inches for my total comfort....
So before you buy try to find your zone....
What size bars are on the bike now? Either use a prop or have someone hold a ruler up to get an idea..
Another thing... If you have a narrow front end, make sure you order narrow bars.... To me it doesn't look right when you bar bend is way outside of triple trees
FMB Choppers https://www.fmbchopperparts.com/ practically 0 angle, almost like a T bar and narrow at the base as you can see. Mine are 16" but they can make them any way you want.
And depending on the wires. You might also be able to get away with a taller riser too. I know that a four inch will work, but again depending on your cables.
At 14", forget using stock throttle or clutch cables or brake line. I used NAMMZ wiring harness extensions, but forget what length clutch, throttle & brake lines I went with. Clutch cable's a little longer than necessary, but no biggie. I know it's more time consuming, but wait till you get your new bars & get good measurements for cables, etc. There is a whole bunch of excess/slack wire stuffed into the frame, so you won't need near as long of wiring harness extensions as you'd think.