How to beat diagnose a charging problem
#1
How to beat diagnose a charging problem
Hello folks! I hope the world is being good to you.
My buddy has a 2005 wide glide that doesn't appear to be charging the battery, or he's got a parasitic drain. What is the easiest and best way of checking which is the issue?
My buddy said his stator burned out and needed replaced, and asked if I could do it. I pulled off the primary and got to the stater and there is no burn the oil smelled fine, no evidence the stator is bad. Could be a bad regulator, maybe but am not sure how to best test it. It's my understanding using a meter on them can burn out the fragile diodes within so I've been told...
Any advice?
My buddy has a 2005 wide glide that doesn't appear to be charging the battery, or he's got a parasitic drain. What is the easiest and best way of checking which is the issue?
My buddy said his stator burned out and needed replaced, and asked if I could do it. I pulled off the primary and got to the stater and there is no burn the oil smelled fine, no evidence the stator is bad. Could be a bad regulator, maybe but am not sure how to best test it. It's my understanding using a meter on them can burn out the fragile diodes within so I've been told...
Any advice?
#2
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frankjc (05-14-2022)
#3
Basically running at 2000 , battery reading should be 14.3 DC or so depending on battery charge. Never over 15. No AC voltage!
That checks regulator. Battery after turning on lights and back off at lead of battery and on wires should be 12.7.
12.3 is discharged
Three wires coming from stator. Unhook. No ground or reading on them to frame ground. Reading resistance between them (3 checks) should be about 0.1 to 0.3 OHM. With bike running, 32-40 AC. (again 3 checks)
To check draining, unhook negative. Put your DC amp meter in line. Key on. With alarm bike, you will see about 2.5 meg ohm from alarm,ecm, speedometer.regulator ect.
It will pull a lot more when first hooked up as alarm function test and then trims off to above as it goes to sleeps. That first connection will spark and you can hear it. It does not stay that way. Fools people that don't put meter on it or understand it.
A good battery will last 2- 3 months in warm weather and still start. Don't just keep maintenance charger on all the time. It will start just about forever like that but the last start will be at home and a no start miles down the road.. And these bikes are a real bitch to push home.
That checks regulator. Battery after turning on lights and back off at lead of battery and on wires should be 12.7.
12.3 is discharged
Three wires coming from stator. Unhook. No ground or reading on them to frame ground. Reading resistance between them (3 checks) should be about 0.1 to 0.3 OHM. With bike running, 32-40 AC. (again 3 checks)
To check draining, unhook negative. Put your DC amp meter in line. Key on. With alarm bike, you will see about 2.5 meg ohm from alarm,ecm, speedometer.regulator ect.
It will pull a lot more when first hooked up as alarm function test and then trims off to above as it goes to sleeps. That first connection will spark and you can hear it. It does not stay that way. Fools people that don't put meter on it or understand it.
A good battery will last 2- 3 months in warm weather and still start. Don't just keep maintenance charger on all the time. It will start just about forever like that but the last start will be at home and a no start miles down the road.. And these bikes are a real bitch to push home.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 05-13-2022 at 05:44 PM.
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Max Headflow (05-13-2022)
#4
Sometimes individuals say things but that does not mean it is correct.
For example, has anybody had the battery load tested?
Has anybody reviewed the 4 ends of the battery cables?
Has anybody tested voltage at battery posts at rest, while cranking and at high idle?
Once that information is reviewed then step #2 would be to test stator AC voltage.
Then if all is well check parasitic voltage
For example, has anybody had the battery load tested?
Has anybody reviewed the 4 ends of the battery cables?
Has anybody tested voltage at battery posts at rest, while cranking and at high idle?
Once that information is reviewed then step #2 would be to test stator AC voltage.
Then if all is well check parasitic voltage
#5
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Here you go, HDF has the answers within:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-1-a.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-2-a.html
Your Welcome.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-1-a.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-2-a.html
Your Welcome.
#6
Here you go, HDF has the answers within:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-1-a.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-2-a.html
Your Welcome.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-1-a.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-2-a.html
Your Welcome.
One thing to note is that this information pretty much assumes using an older Volt Ohm Meter like a Simpson 260. A DVM will have a higher input impedance so step 2 may fail.
Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
Also DVMs don't have a way to zero out lead resistance. You need to connect the leads together to get an idea of the resistance in the leads and subtract that from the measurement.
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CoolBreeze3646 (05-14-2022)
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