2 over front end
Another option to extend your fork 2" is to get some Trackerdie 2" extended damper rods. I have no affiliation or experience with the product, but it looks well-built and is a lot cheaper than new sliders (my one concern would be that simply extending the damper rod will reduce the 'overlap' between the fork tube and the slider, and therefore increase the potential 'leverage' and stiction between the slider and tube...) https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/produ...amper-tube-kit. If you use the longer damper, the original springs and spacer can just be reused...
Tools: To dismantle the forks needs a few basic tools, but keep in mind that the forks are Japanese, so most fasteners are metric. Unusual tools you might need to buy are a 35mm socket for the fork cap, and a long 12mm allen driver for the damper rod bolts. An impact driver is useful for removing the damper dod bolt. You will need (or need to make) a fork seal installer/driver. Motion Pro makes a nice one, but you can use a piece of PVC pipe if you're careful. Torque wrench(es) are really important for proper reassembly.
Parts: As you'll need to dismantle/reassemble the forks, you should replace all the seals etc. James Gaskets makes a good fork rebuild kitwhich includes all the seals, spacers, gaskets etc. You'll need fresh fork oil. If you don't have a model-specific manual, I HIGHLY recommend getting one.
But that's about it. It's a fairly easy job, but take your time and be methodical and careful. If you get it wrong it can (in fact or probably will) be dangerous. There isnt a lot of stuff in the fork/brake/wheel area that isn't important to get right.
I hope that helps

Last edited by Davdoodles; Dec 19, 2022 at 03:37 PM. Reason: typo
Another option to extend your fork 2" is to get some Trackerdie 2" extended damper rods. I have no affiliation or experience with the product, but it looks well-built and is a lot cheaper than new sliders (my one concern would be that simply extending the damper rod will reduce the 'overlap' between the fork tube and the slider, and therefore increase the potential 'leverage' and stiction between the slider and tube...) https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/produ...amper-tube-kit. If you use the longer damper, the original springs and spacer can just be reused...
Tools: To dismantle the forks needs a few basic tools, but keep in mind that the forks are Japanese, so most fasteners are metric. Unusual tools you might need to buy are a 35mm socket for the fork cap, and a long 12mm allen driver for the damper rod bolts. An impact driver is useful for removing the damper dod bolt. You will need (or need to make) a fork seal installer/driver. Motion Pro makes a nice one, but you can use a piece of PVC pipe if you're careful. Torque wrench(es) are really important for proper reassembly.
Parts: As you'll need to dismantle/reassemble the forks, you should replace all the seals etc. James Gaskets makes a good fork rebuild kitwhich includes all the seals, spacers, gaskets etc. You'll need fresh fork oil. If you don't have a model-specific manual, I HIGHLY recommend getting one.
But that's about it. It's a fairly easy job, but take your time and be methodical and careful. If you get it wrong it can (in fact or probably will) be dangerous. There isnt a lot of stuff in the fork/brake/wheel area that isn't important to get right.
I hope that helps

I have the TrackerDie +2 dampers on my '17 FDXB and after 1 season of riding, I have had 0 issues with coil bind, etc. If you're going as far as tearing your forks down, do yourself a favor and drop in a RaceTech gold emulator at the same time. They're cheap and make a huge difference to comfort and control.
Another option to extend your fork 2" is to get some Trackerdie 2" extended damper rods. I have no affiliation or experience with the product, but it looks well-built and is a lot cheaper than new sliders (my one concern would be that simply extending the damper rod will reduce the 'overlap' between the fork tube and the slider, and therefore increase the potential 'leverage' and stiction between the slider and tube...) https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/produ...amper-tube-kit. If you use the longer damper, the original springs and spacer can just be reused...
Tools: To dismantle the forks needs a few basic tools, but keep in mind that the forks are Japanese, so most fasteners are metric. Unusual tools you might need to buy are a 35mm socket for the fork cap, and a long 12mm allen driver for the damper rod bolts. An impact driver is useful for removing the damper dod bolt. You will need (or need to make) a fork seal installer/driver. Motion Pro makes a nice one, but you can use a piece of PVC pipe if you're careful. Torque wrench(es) are really important for proper reassembly.
Parts: As you'll need to dismantle/reassemble the forks, you should replace all the seals etc. James Gaskets makes a good fork rebuild kitwhich includes all the seals, spacers, gaskets etc. You'll need fresh fork oil. If you don't have a model-specific manual, I HIGHLY recommend getting one.
But that's about it. It's a fairly easy job, but take your time and be methodical and careful. If you get it wrong it can (in fact or probably will) be dangerous. There isnt a lot of stuff in the fork/brake/wheel area that isn't important to get right.
I hope that helps

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