The shop handed me a printout stating 74.60 hp and 83.99 torque. I have a V&H Prop Pipe for the exhaust. Do these #s sound accurate? Before the guy did anything he told me there would be about a 10 hp increase which is just about right on the money.

I can feel a little extra power but the main thing was the smoothness now. I just had the Pro Pipe with stock air box with no tune for a little bit and sometimes it was like riding a bucking bronco! The popping and sputtering is gone.

 

Sounds good. How much for the tune?

 

It was $95. 1.5 hours of labor at $60 per hour and a $5 pilot jet. That was with the dyno tune included. It's carbed btw. It's a local indy around here that I have taken my bike to several times.

 

 

you should have gotten closer to 80 hp ive heard maybe because you don't have full exhaust just edit to add you do have full exhaust,,hmmmm
well your happy with it thats what counts

 

does the dyno tune make that much difference? I noticed that on the dyno post you are running the same components. That is a big diff from the baseline(blue) to the red

 

when charge air filter, pc unit pipes. it is a great thing to do.it is the
difference between running perfectly and running ok.or good.by using
dyno, the tech is suppose to match the air /fuel mixture.or, download the
best program for your set up...you did the best thing their was....YOUR
BIKE IS VERY PROUD OF YOU....

KEEP THE SHINY SIDE UP...

 

I have to disagree, this is just my .02.. Before this I did alot of tunning on Subaru STI's which are turbo but its all fuel Injection tuning and fuel and air mix's etc etc.. A DYNO is a great tool but that's it Dyno #'s are just that Dyno #'s and every dyno gives out diff #.. Road tuning is the way to go especially for pipes, air cleaner minimal stuff you get real world conditions, you have real load on the road tune etc. Not everything is gonne be wide open throttle like you do on a DYNO. When you start getting into big motor work heads, cams etc etc and your running a very agressive tune with like the race tuner the DYNO is the way to go and you dyno tune it and then finish her up with a few road tunes. The DYNO is cool you get that nice print out with your # to show your buddies but not NEEDED for pipes and a air cleaner..

 

I have to disagree.. i race for 6 year on a cbr600rr and cbr1000rr and we dyno the bike
when we change parts. we were able to change the power for mid or high rpm depending
on the track.we were able to fine tune the bike to get sometimes up to 8 hp..on a straight
the 8hp is importante. if dyno is only numbers well i guess you dont know what you are talking about. i had the chance to get a honda pro nick which work on Miguel Duhamel bike
which is one of the best world leading spike bike champion. he is the the one who dyno my bike and got me 8hp more on my cbr1000rr by using the dyno.american thunder use the dyno to know which mapping to use on a bike so they could get the best hp...so ...from my experience i disagree...racing on the ice on motocross, we even dyno the bike with diffrent
jetting for the best hp...that what my experience say... i am not going to change idea...

 

Since we're talking tuning, I wonder how close to reality the stock numbers are. I know per the hd spec sheet, my 07 wg is supposed to have 92 ft/lbs of torque out of the box. Been thinking about doing a cam and want to make 110ft/lbs my target. I'd probably add a thunderheader as I fell in love with it after seeing an early 2000 carbed fatboy just blow away a mid 2000's custom 88" softail at MB bike week. The fatboy only had a jetkit and thunderheaders. The guy on the FB was easy 250lbs (mostly muscle) and the guy on the custom was approx half his size (probably not far from 145-150) so you'd think the custom would have won. Anyway, 110ft/lbs shouldn't be hard to reach since you can get approx 10% hp/tq increase from the thunderheader alone.