Looking @ 2003 FXDW what should I know?
#1
Looking @ 2003 FXDW what should I know?
Going to look at a 2003 dyna with 34K. Looks good BUT what should I be looking for? I have 40 years on shovelheads and I know them well. This will be my first with out a kicker and I just don't know where the weak spots are. Thanks for any help.
John
John
#2
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Spaceman617 (03-09-2018)
#3
Pretty solid overall.
Sealed wheel bearings (ball) don't seem as durable as tapered rollers. Pretty easy to change, tho.
Electronic ignition, even on the carbed models. Pretty bullet proof, but not adjustable. Aftermarket took care of that.
Rubber isolators at front of engine and rear of transmission wear out causing excess vibration, knocking (engine to frame), and handling problems. Pretty easy to change and/or upgrade, but not exactly cheap.
Cam chain tensioners should be inspected every 25k or so unless aftermarket solution is applied. (Gear drive cams, more durable sliders/shoes)
Otherwise I can't think of anything ypu shouldn't already be ready for.
Oh, tail lamp wiring runs inside the fender and can chafe on the tire causing shorts/malfunctions that may seem unrelated.
Sealed wheel bearings (ball) don't seem as durable as tapered rollers. Pretty easy to change, tho.
Electronic ignition, even on the carbed models. Pretty bullet proof, but not adjustable. Aftermarket took care of that.
Rubber isolators at front of engine and rear of transmission wear out causing excess vibration, knocking (engine to frame), and handling problems. Pretty easy to change and/or upgrade, but not exactly cheap.
Cam chain tensioners should be inspected every 25k or so unless aftermarket solution is applied. (Gear drive cams, more durable sliders/shoes)
Otherwise I can't think of anything ypu shouldn't already be ready for.
Oh, tail lamp wiring runs inside the fender and can chafe on the tire causing shorts/malfunctions that may seem unrelated.
Last edited by cggorman; 03-09-2018 at 05:33 PM.
#4
Pretty solid overall.
Sealed wheel bearings (ball) don't seem as durable as tapered rollers. Pretty easy to change, tho.
Electronic ignition, even on the carbed models. Pretty bullet proof, but not adjustable. Aftermarket took care of that.
Rubber isolators at front of engine and rear of transmission wear out causing excess vibration, knocking (engine to frame), and handling problems. Pretty easy to change and/or upgrade, but not exactly cheap.
Cam chain tensioners should be inspected every 25k or so unless aftermarket solution is applied. (Gear drive cams, more durable sliders/shoes)
Otherwise I can't think of anything ypu shouldn't already be ready for.
Oh, tail lamp wiring runs inside the fender and can chafe on the tire causing shorts/malfunctions that may seem unrelated.
Sealed wheel bearings (ball) don't seem as durable as tapered rollers. Pretty easy to change, tho.
Electronic ignition, even on the carbed models. Pretty bullet proof, but not adjustable. Aftermarket took care of that.
Rubber isolators at front of engine and rear of transmission wear out causing excess vibration, knocking (engine to frame), and handling problems. Pretty easy to change and/or upgrade, but not exactly cheap.
Cam chain tensioners should be inspected every 25k or so unless aftermarket solution is applied. (Gear drive cams, more durable sliders/shoes)
Otherwise I can't think of anything ypu shouldn't already be ready for.
Oh, tail lamp wiring runs inside the fender and can chafe on the tire causing shorts/malfunctions that may seem unrelated.
#5
This ^ (Gorman knows his ****)
Looking @ 2003 FXDW what should I know?
And unless the PO (knew something and) did some upgrades - WGs handle like **** (pushes through corners / takes a country mile to stop/ very harsh suspension response)
Drop some coin on suspension / bakes / motor mounts - set em up properly - you'll have a sled that handles
Welcome to the dark side
Ghost
Looking @ 2003 FXDW what should I know?
And unless the PO (knew something and) did some upgrades - WGs handle like **** (pushes through corners / takes a country mile to stop/ very harsh suspension response)
Drop some coin on suspension / bakes / motor mounts - set em up properly - you'll have a sled that handles
Welcome to the dark side
Ghost
#6
Thought of one other thing...
The valvetrain can seem noisy to some. Most of it seems to come from the rockers. I've also read of some concerning reports of potentially excess (enough to tick, anyway) valve lash despite the engines having Hydraulic lifters.
Neither is much concern, but can sound like a problem if you're used to a silent valvetrain.
I almost always run solid lifters on my engine builds so I don't even notice it. Others obsess over it.
Just FYI.
....and, thanks Ghost! Coming from you that's high praise indeed.
The valvetrain can seem noisy to some. Most of it seems to come from the rockers. I've also read of some concerning reports of potentially excess (enough to tick, anyway) valve lash despite the engines having Hydraulic lifters.
Neither is much concern, but can sound like a problem if you're used to a silent valvetrain.
I almost always run solid lifters on my engine builds so I don't even notice it. Others obsess over it.
Just FYI.
....and, thanks Ghost! Coming from you that's high praise indeed.
#7
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Because of the narrow tire up front the bike will wander a little bit on rain grooves and metal grating on bridges. Just let the handle bars float in your hands but maintain control. Same thoughts on the cam chain tensioners. the alternator is more than likely single phase and the system is a bit anemic on charge rates at idle rpm.
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Spaceman617 (03-09-2018)
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